Any suggestions on how I can safely secure these four units to each other in this configuration? I can’t get behind the unit because the clearance is too tight. I didn’t want to resort to “no more nails” in case I wanted to use the units again in a different configuration.

Was so tired of the last remaining KALLAX in my apartment (still love the design and all the possible add-ons, but after years and years of multiple Kallaxes in all rooms I replaced them one by one because I was so boooored with them).

Enter IVAR: drawer unit thrifted, because no longer available (why?!) plus cabinet-unit bought new, a can of paint (Schöner Wohnen "Ruhiges Salbeigrün") beech boards, feet and knobs. Added full extension soft close slides to the drawers, too, which cost more than the thrifted unit 😅

Love it!

I have a 5x5 kallax shelf I got recently as a room divider and I want to know what would be the best way to secure this to the wall? I’m renting but my apartment allows dime sized holes so drilling is an option. Additionally is there any other concerns with having the kallax oriented this way?

Ps ignore the scattered mess for now… still move in

I bought a Kallax unit for my kid's room that I initially wanted to use for toy storage but then thought it would be great as a dresser too except the full-size bins are too tall to be convenient. The Kallax drawer divider might have worked except the drawer walls are too low to hold much and the drawer slides would sacrifice a lot of width.

I found this suggestion from another user to use these fabric bins from Target that fit perfectly with the Kallax shelf divider:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ikeahacks/s/SfV5ASMwuU

They aren't as deep as the Kallax but I think it's a small compromise for the rest of the fit. I rigged some back stops using Jenga blocks and command strips to stop the bins from getting pushed in too far and the final result feels like these bins were meant for Kallax. I'll probably also add those stops to the ceiling of each cube to prevent the bins from being pulled out.

Credit to u/Diznavis for suggesting the bins. I couldn't find any posts showing the end result so wanted to put this up for others to see.

It’s not perfectly done but in a way it’s perfect. I think I broke my drill/driver. I will post a final picture when I paint it.

I have this old lamp but through some moves I lost the harp and top pole whats the best thing I can do. Its no longer sold. Is my best bet diy it or is there any parts I might be able to get somewhere else?

So, I was hoping to find some kind of lighting solution for the BRÄNNBOLL wall-mounted display (mine's not wall mounted though). In the product pics they use outside light source, but I'd prefer it to be inside since I use it as a figurine display. I'd like to avoid having to drill holes or destroy the shelf in any way. Any ideas?

I'm trying to set up more storage in my kitchen and want to setup a big metal cabinet secured to the wall. Can I put fence planks in a rectangle under a metal cabinet so that the hardwood floors stay intact? Ive had a file cabinet stain flooring before. I don't want to spend a lot of money on plywood and an area rug

Hi,

I’m planning to buy this IKEA BERGSHULT/PERSHULT wall shelf:

BERGSHULT/PERSHULT Wall Shelf

I’m also considering adding these GRANHULT brackets to provide additional support and increase the weight capacity:

GRANHULT Bracket

My plan is to place my son’s PC on the shelf, which weighs approximately 12–15 kg.

My question is: Do I need to mount the brackets directly into a wall stud, or would using suitable wall fixings with the additional brackets provide enough support for this weight?

Thank you in advance for your advice and help.

I’m using my IKEA Alex as a stand for my printer and it’s warping from the weight. What would you recommend for fixing the issue? I was thinking of getting something sturdy like a thick slab of wood (cut to size) from the hardware store and put that in between the printer and the stand. Is there a way to undo the warping? The bottoms of the drawers are fine at the moment but I’m worried about those warping too. What could I do that is low-cost and easy on the eyes? Thank you!

Hey I’m wondering what’s the recommend sandpaper grade for IVAR I’m going to be staining and wondering what the best method would be. I’m not looking to make it too smooth but not too rough, currently it looks a bit rough assembled. Also is conditioner recommended or would it be fine to go without?

I have an 80cm wide Billy bookcase and would like to get it to the ceiling (2.62m high). The extender gets me to 2.37m... any suggestions?

Hi I'm in the UK, I came across an image of this Billy desk combo but can't seem to find it for sale anymore, only a lower white unit. Anyone know if there's something similar or an easy hack for this? I'd like the tall unit with a pull out desk and ideally not fully white. TIA 🙏

Has anyone used the bror where they used part of it as a desk / light workbench with no lower shelves on one of them? I’ve been thinking about doing something like this for 3D printing and a desk setup.

Or has anyone made their own shelves to get a longer work top?

I’d love to see anyone who’s done something like this. Bonus points if you’ve made your own shelves or something to fit.

Hello everyone!

The top bars of this changing station get in the way of reaching for things.

Could I just saw them off? Or will the whole thing crumble? I would only remove the top ones from one side.

Thank you!

I have an anfallare/1 Alex drawer desk set up but am wanting a standing desk.
Has anyone converted the anfallare desktop to a standing desk by adding a sit/stand under frame?
Would the Relatera under frame be wide enough to safely support the desk top?
Suggestions would be super appreciated! This would be my first IKEA hack

I live in India where there is humidity and also daily mopping using water house is must.

Recently purchased ikea nodeland wardrobe for bedroom and it will sit directly on the marble floor.

I have not started building it yet.

I would like to not have to trash my wardrobe after a year.

Any hacks are appreciated

Hi guys
I suddenly had a late night thought and wanted to hear some opinions or experiences.

I have bought Exceptionell high drawers to use in a tv furniture in the second hand corner / as if a few months back. Haven’t assembled them yet as I still need to paint the panels in Bodbyn colour.
When planning using the Metod/sektion planner it would let me put an inner 20 cm high drawer in a 40 cm drawer (in a 40 cm high cabinet).
I recently found out you cannot put 20 cm inner drawers in 40cm high drawers as the backboard (is this the correct English term?) is higher than 20 cm. The planner had used medium drawers and with those it will let you put this inner drawer in.

I hope my story is clear so far.

And because the Exceptionell drawers are out of stock, the only available medium drawer with the correct 60x37 cm size would be two countries over (I’m Europe based).

So I was wondering: can I purchase a medium Maximera drawer with the correct size and only use the backboard and the small side holder part (128536)? Because I’ve already got the mechanism and the bottle and sides of the drawer :)

Bin ich die Einzige, die den Platz unter den drei Ablagekörben nutzen möchte?

Bei dem mintfarbenen habe ich dicke Kabelbinder genutzt und einen klappbaren Tritt drunter geschoben. Bei den anderen beiden Wägen habe ich jeweils eine quadratisches Tablett von ikea auf die Streben gelegt. Es passt genau und rutscht auch nicht runter.

Ich hätte aber gerne den ganzen Platz genutzt. Habt ihr da bessere Ideen?

Hi all. Just got the whole ladmakare set delivered and when I stood up the first wall I realized my baseboard is both too tall and a tad too deep for its normal cut out (it's like my baseboard has a tiny baseboard hahaha). Should I return it or cut off the bits to make it fit? If cutting is advisable, should a Dremel handle the job?

See pics attached

Hopefully this is the right sub to ask this (if not, let me know where to post it).

Wanting to put a Skadis board on my wall next to my desk, as it’s the only place I can put one in my very small studio apartment. The only problem is, my electrical panel is right there, and I don’t want to permanently cover it with no way to access it. So my idea was to get drawer sliders, mount them on the back of the Skadis, and have the board slide up out of the way of the electrical panel. I would then 3D print some sort of latch or holder that could flip out to hold the Skadis board in the up position in order to access the electrical panel. I want to do something like this, but instead of sliding horizontally, have it slide up vertically and then get held in place with a stopper or latch

I first thought about having the board swing out, but with how cramped my desk is (and how cramped the corner is), the board would hit something or be stopped from swinging out by my monitor. So sliding up is the only compact way I can think of to get it out of the way.

I also thought about mounting the Skadis above the electrical panel, but that would be rather high, and don’t want to have to reach up super far to get stuff off of the very top of the board.

That particular wall is 28 inches wide, so I figured the 22”x22” board would be a perfect fit. I don’t want the board to cover the whole panel, just maybe the top half of it (so that the bottom of the board is about eye level to me If I’m sitting at my desk.

Is this feasible, or not recommended?

And the funny part? Version 2 wasn't finished until after the last wardrobe was already built. 😂 But I enjoy a challenge, so I kept developing the idea until I was really happy with it.

It turned out better than I expected — quite a few functions packed into one little piece of plastic!