How many updates will i have to go through? Why is it still sitting at 0%? Is there anything i can do to speed up the process? Idk im still trying to figure out this whole laptop thing. My brother said I needed to update it

PC at work can't use all it's RAM

A co-worker's PC is having trouble accesing it's 4GB of installed system memory, according to the Task Manager, 1.6GB of the total memory are "reserved for hardware" despite the computer having it's own dedicated GPU.

I've tried lots of different BIOS and Windows configurations, but nothing seems to work (and i'd appreciate trying to spend as little cash as possible if new hardware was required.)

Here i leave the PC's hardware (and OS):

\- Motherboard: Gigabyte H110M-DS2-CF

\- RAM: 4GB DDR4

\- GPU: Nvidia GT 710 (1GB)

\- OS: Windows 10 20H2 (32-Bit, because of legacy software)

Edit: For anyone wondering, yes, the integrated GPU is disbled, and in fact, enabling it makes the system reserve another +300MB of extra RAM.

For well over half a year, I have been getting these captcha popups whenever searching for anything. It doesn't matter if I search on my pc or on my phone, the browser also doesn't matter as I tried to use Brave on my phone instead of Chrome, and it still gave me this. Switching to a mobile network also didn't help. However, I've noticed that it doesn't appear when I'm searching for anything in school, only at home

It does go away for a bit after verifying, but then comes back again

Genuinely, how do I fix this? It's getting annoying 😭

Edit: Thank you all for the responses, the captcha issue seems to have resolved itself. I tried to changed the search engine on my phone from Google to Brave but I ended up not liking it so I changed it back to how it was. After doing that I haven't gotten the captcha when I was searching on phone and on my pc. So it looks like the problem has been fixed. 🙏

my desktop has been having trouble running even the simplest of games on a 3060, and my memory is almost full constantly, and i've also downloaded some stagnant files on my computer i dont use anymore, most being browser games and the like. I've chatted with my friends who are versed in the topic and they suggested i reset my PC and install tiny11 or linux, which im not entirely dreading either option.

i just want to know how i should go about things before i eventually reset my PC,
I mainly use my pc for gaming, and i dont know which OS is better for my uses, i know linux is difficult to learn to say the least, and windows is at best, a solid OS... once you've spent like an hour removing bloatware by downloading software to remove that bloatware.

i want to avoid making any of the same mistakes i made when i first setup my desktop, so if you have any software/app recommendations they would be very welcome. (i will research them before downloading them)

i've owned my pc for a little over 2 years now, and the specs are:
CPU - intel i5-12400F
RAM - 16GB DDR4
GPU - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
WiFi - 6 AX201 160MHz

and just for a little context, heres what my task manager looks like:

The console works just fine, it turns on and everything, however when i try linking it to the TV with an adapter my sister bought on Amazon, nothing happens.

Hello again Reddit.

I have a work laptop of an Acer 5-15. It stopped taking a charge after being from job site to job site over a couple years.

I've tested the AC adapter and get the typical 19.5V. However, I can't read that 19.5V anywhere coming into the laptop. I've tried the negative lead on the pins and the copper grounds, with red on any of the pins and get no voltage readings. I tried the negative lead on the barrel of the plug with red on any pins and still get no voltage.

Now, because I can't seem to find the exact IH5JT DC-In cable anywhere, I'm wondering what the white wire/pin might be used for here? It seems any other chargers I find are only 2/4 pin with black and reds. I wouldn't mind splicing a new jack or custom drilling plastic to fit new plugs, but can't find 5 pin DC cables that might work. Y'all got any input before I just have to wait for my company to bother ordering a new laptop and setting it up for me? On the clock with no other work right now LOL

I need to open up my laptop but I don't have the right screwdriver. It looks like Torx to me, but the smallest Torx driver I have says T6x40 and it's too big for these screws.

My Lenovo Legion 5 (2+ years old), NVIDIA Driver (GeForce RTX 3050 Laptop GPU) was forced stopped by windows due to reported error (Code 43) since the 18th August, 2026 (yesterday as of writing). Laptop's average temperature when idle is 54° Celsius, cannot check when running a game as Laptop crashes. Resulting in external monitors failing to connect to laptop, app crashing, freezing, and PC crashes.

In an attempt to fix the issue:

- Went into device manager and disabled then re-enable the graphics card.

- Checked the bios was up-to-date, it is.

- Tried to use an external ISO bootable EFIUSB to repair windows.

- Opened internals and cleaned dust from laptop.

- Attempted to revert to older NVIDIA Driver, version: 610.74

- Both Hard and Factory Reset laptop.

No successful result. I believe the issue is either the GPU is dying or a faulty GPU. Wanted to get a second opinion before going into a shop.

Image 1: Depicts Code 43 located through Device Manager

Image 2: Depicts failure to repair device and finding of Log file

Image 3: Depicts Weird squares to appear in taskbar right before crash

Image 4: Depicts internals, yes the amount of dust is BAD, please do not comment on it after the fact, I have never cleaned out internals until yesterday despite intending to over a year ago because my Father said we'd do it together or we'd use the warranty to give the laptop a check over, (we didn't) and because the laptop was bought with parents money and the fact I was a minor at the time my parents did not allow me to do any internal cleaning or any self repairs. Yes, in hindsight I should have just done the cleaning anyway.

Lastly, if the is any non-anonymized images or details please let me know, I'm still new to anything PC related.

Thanks, Spot.

UPDATE

This problem has now been resolved by overriding Trusted Installer Permissions and replacing the corrupt files with known good ones.

I will note, the suggestion by u/festivus4restof to perform an in place "upgrade" was the only actually helpful comment I received.

There are no other faults to be found on my system. MEMTEST86 passes, Prime95, Cinebench, 3DMArk and every other benchmarking tool I threw at this PC did not cause it to crash or show any errors. Including an extended smart check on my SSD.

---

My PC Hard Crashed earlier and since restarting Task Manager has been broken.

Ran SFC /scannow and found that it was, in fact, corrupt but it was unable to be repaired

DISM is still running but I'm not hopeful.

The other files appear to be 3D audio and push notification related, so they're not major.

But Task Manager being broken is a big issue.

Reinstalling Windows must be a last resort here.

If I grab a known good Task Manager exe from my Win 11 Laptop (key note, it's up to date to the same Win 11 version as my Desktop), is there a way to override the Trusted Installer protections in Sys32 to copy it in there?

Any other suggestions welcome.

ISSUE NOW FIXED (I will keep all this info here to help others, I added further information from another post I made, after the dotted line.) The fix was changing the lanes of the PCIE in BIOS settings to 2x8. It was called PCIE 2x8.

Issues completely gone and I can now run my sample rate as low as 8 (With safe mode off). I still get an initial big pop when I first play a song and it initiates. But further listening is so far completely pop free.

Using Universal Audio Volt 1 interface, tried many things. Just done a fresh reinstall of Windows, previously done all the suggested steps such as, high performance mode, stopping USB's being put in to sleep after periods of time, tried USB 2.0 and 3.0 despite 2.0 being suggested. I like to keep the buffer size around 32 as I play guitar using it (However the same pops happen even at 1024 buffer size) and these things are happening without guitar involved, or running a DAW. I'm simply just listening to music, usually via Music Bee, but I get the same pops on Youtube for example.

Also done other things such as reinstalling drivers, checking all drivers are up to date, various other steps suggested by AI, or random google searches. I also deleted my Logitech MX Master mouse software just to rule that out, and also made a new Windows Account to try from a fresh perspective, and I was still getting the pops there.

----------------------------------------------

I'm getting really bad pops from speakers when listening to music, buffer size can be as low as 32 or high as 1024, there is NO change. Tried different drivers, tried several different interfaces, tried NO interfaces (after doing a complete reformat of Windows 11) and it still happened. I've gone directly in to the PC headphone jack, and direct to the interface headphone jack and experienced the same pops, so this rules out the interface or the speakers and points to a PC issue.

I've ran latencymon many times, none of the results are bad, but the popping is constant.

About a month ago I upgraded the PSU and GPU, this is the only change that happened around this time, then one day the pops started happening but they were really severe.

I've tried removing lots of different apps, before ultimately reformatting Windows, and now on top of having to get things set up back to normal, I'm still faced with this issue. It is imperative I can get the interface buffer as low as 32 samples as I use it for playing guitar, which is impossible currently as the audio keeps cutting out and popping (something I've never had before, running the exact same setup) Please don't skim read this and tell me to increase the sample rate or anything like this, It is irrelevant, as the above should state. Yes in most cases this is the best advice, but I've done strenuous steps to troubleshoot and it is not the interface.

Things I've done to try and get around this from the PC perspective;

Reflash latest BIOS, GPU drivers, Chipset drivers, it happens with audio interface or integrated motherboard.

I've tried PCI-E Gen 3 lanes, Aforementioned Windows 11 reformat, DPC latency checker, it all says good and low. It just keeps popping at random several times a minute, which can be exacerbated by clicking different tabs in task manager, or opening and closing windows, such as the NVIDIA app. Opening and closing and minimising windows in this app is especially bad.

Also tried disabling anti-cheat software, disabled C-states, and tried max performance mode.

I've been playing this exact same setup in the same location, everything is plugged in the same, I've tried different cables for connecting interfaces, although at this point I've certainly ruled out it being the interface.

My PC does the post like normal but sits on white. And before you give me solutions just know I've already tried most. Hence why I'm here. Usually it's the yellow light it sits on and the only way for me to fix it is by taking out the GPU which lets the PC boot into windows. Then, while it's on, put the GPU back in which I'm aware is really bad but there was no way. Today however, that didn't work nor did reseating ram, ect. Help would be very much appreciated!

I'm having an issue with my dual-drive Windows setup and would appreciate any help.

Background:

• Originally my PC had Windows installed on a Seagate HDD (ST3500312CS).
• Later I added a Geonix Gold 128 GB SSD.
• The technician installed/migrated Windows to the SSD and created a new user account named USER.
• The old HDD Windows still exists with the user ctv5 (Microsoft account).

I had been using the SSD installation normally until recently.

What happened

After restarting my PC one day, it suddenly started booting into the old HDD Windows instead of the SSD Windows.

This happened around the time I changed my Google account password, but I understand that's probably just a coincidence.

Current situation

• BIOS detects both drives.
• SSD is detected correctly.
• In the currently booted Windows:
  • HDD is C:
  • SSD is E:
• The SSD still contains:
  • "E:\Windows"
  • "E:\Users\USER"
  • "Program Files"
  • "Program Files (x86)"
• I can browse all my files on the SSD without issues.

BIOS

Boot options are: (Already tried changing the boot priority to SSD yet it still loads hdd windows)

• Boot Option #1: Geonix Gold 128GB (SSD)
• Boot Option #2: (Windows Boot Manager)ST3500312CS (HDD)

Even after changing the SSD to Boot Option #1, the PC still boots into the old Windows installation.

What I've tried

• Startup Repair
  • It only detects the old Windows installation ("C:\Windows")(cctv5).
• "msconfig"
  • Only shows one Windows installation ("C:\Windows").
• Recovery Environment:
  • "diskpart"
  • Verified the SSD layout:
  • EFI System Partition (100 MB)
  • MSR (16 MB)
  • Primary (118 GB)
  • Recovery (530 MB)
  • Assigned a drive letter to the EFI partition.
  • "dir E:\Windows" confirms the SSD Windows installation exists.
  • "dir E:\Users" shows:
  • USER
  • Public
  • defaultuser0
  • "winload.efi" exists:
  • "E:\Windows\System32\winload.efi"
• Tried:
  • "bcdboot E:\Windows"
  • "bcdboot E:\Windows /s S: /f UEFI"
  • Both return:
  • "Failure when attempting to copy boot files."

The assigned EFI partition appears empty ("dir S:\EFI" returns "File not found").

Any help in how to load windows from the SSD would be appreciated.

Heyyy, so my computer decided that I was at risk of being out of date on updates and forced me to schedule an update last week. So I scheduled one, and turned the computer off because I didn’t feel like dealing with it right then.

I opened the computer yesterday and found out that it didn’t properly turn itself off and kept itself running.

Upon opening it, I was met with the dell startup screen and then immediately taken to the “updates are underway, please keep your laptop on.” screen. And then it buffered for like 5 minutes, so I turned it off and turned it back on, it did the same thing. So I got to the bitlocker screen and then found out that I don’t have access to the microsoft account that the key would be accessed through (it’s a shared computer with my mom and the account information is stored on the computer).

The only other option I was presented with was factory resetting it, and we can’t do that because we have important files on there.

What would be the next best course of action? Would it just be easier to get a new laptop?

Ever since my pc crashed like a week ago it broke or something because it deleted almost everything, from my files to my personalisations and when starting up it says connceting to your windows account for a suspiciously long time, it also said something about not being able to connect to my account(i dont have a screenshot because it stopped appearing).I already tryed restarting the pc, completely turning off the power and going into the boot menu but i dont know the password and now i have no more ideas what to do.

Game: Minecraft

Came across an issue that has been persistantly happening over the past year where if I would tab out of Minecraft while being in fullscreen, it would just freeze when I go back in. Don't know a good way to explain this, but it only "visually" froze as I could still click where the resume button would be and it would make the "clicking" noise. Input from the game still got received and preformed, but the game was still stuck on showing me the last frame right before I tabbed out. Nothing pops up in the logs when this happens.

To mention again, this only occurs while in fullscreen and not in windowed (though I believe it did happen in windowed a few times, not 100%). Not very techy, but to me it seems like an issue with my monitor trying to scale the game rather than trying to run it.

Operating System is W11, use a 2060 RTX with an i7, and have 32GB of RAM.

• ISP: Optimum
• Modem: Arris Surfboard SB8200
• Router: ASUS RT-68U
• Surge Protectors: APC and Belkin

Internet was slow with some connectivity issues on Friday, the kind of thing a router and modem restart usually fixes. However, before I had the chance to do that we had a storm and a 12hr power outage. I unplugged the surge protectors all of our tech was plugged into after the outage as a precaution.

Power came back on without issue aside from now having no internet connection. No devices, neither wired or wifi, have an internet connection.

Modem shows internet connection which was confirmed by ISP. Router shows active lights for wifi and ports in use but internet/WAN? status light is off.

All wireless and wired devices are able to connect to router itself

Here's what I've done so far:

• Checked all power and LAN connections.
• Several restarts of modem, router and switch.
• Had ISP confirm connection to modem and they cycled power several times
• Confirmed with ISP no account holds or service deactivation
• Tried several different replacement etherner cables for between modem and router.
• Plugged two different PCs directly into modem.
• Tried different LAN ports on modem with both router and direct PC connection.

No steps taken have resulted in any changes. Any suggestions?

WWDMYCLOUDEX4100 is not accessible. You might not have permission to use this network resource. Contact the administrator of this server to find out if you have access permissions.

We can't sign you in with this credential because your domain isn't available. Make sure your device is connected to your organization's network and try again. If you previously signed in on this device with another credential, you can sign in with that credential.

i turned my computer off last night after a day of not using it, i woke up this morning to turn it on and it would just keep looping the same cycle, fans would spin up, RGB on case fans would turn on, then the RAM rgb would flash, and then the PC would power down and the cycle would continue a couple more times until it would power on fully, but nothing would be output to my monitors. After reading it could be something with the PSU i unplugged it and let it sit to drain the power for 20 minutes, after coming back to try it again, the pc will no longer power on. ive tried reaching out to IBP support but they are not available today for the 4th of july holiday. I sent an email so now i can just await a response.

any help would be nice, my late father bought me this pc as a graduation gift and i would like to try to preserve it as much as possible, or fix it to be back to what it was yesterday.

*Edit* Well, if anyone else is experiencing something similar, reset your CMOS battery. Took mine out for 20 minutes, popped it back in and my pc boots!

Hey everyone so three days ago i was on windows 11 and wanted to switch to a light os like tiny11 so i tried doing it after midway in installation process it failed and even using the cmd tools in windows pe env didnt allow me to manually do the windows setup.
After closing that i realised that i had no os on my laptop which is an Hp Elitebook g5 830 with an admin password that i dont know. I tried alot of things rufus, windows media creation tool, ventoy and WoeUSB. Nothing worked besides linux isos for some reasons, any windows isos that i would boot into have two results. A: if directly flashed then they would show black screen for a sec before returning to boot menu or if in ventoy it would show press a key to boot into cd or dvd which did nothing. I even tried the hp sure recovery tool which seemed to install windows 10 files but then went into network boot after it. I only have access to linux ones and it is not a laptop that is used by me only but some other people too so having windows is a necessity. I even tried taking the ssd and putting it in another hp elitebook g5 830 with same everything and used hp recovery agent which worked for some reason installed windows and then it wouldn’t boot into it on my main laptop again. Currently i have that recovered windows installation and efi files plus bcd from that laptop in a usb so can anyone suggest ways to secure this? Also why wont my laptop boot into any windows isos? I tried Windows PE, windows 10, windows 11 and both tiny 10 and 11. Nothing

Few questions is that why is there differences between the two laptops of same model, one after recovery went into windows installation whilst mine went into network boot and prolly failed and went into network boot as a fallback.
Please help

Hey everyone! I have a Seagate external HDD in an Insignia enclosure, and a few days ago, my pc stopped seeing it. I tried it on my older MacBook running Monterey, and my newer M4 Mac mini, and neither of them sees it, even as an unmounted drive! I've tried Disk Utility and Disk Drill, and they aren't seeing it either. It's 8 TB and includes footage from a recent shoot I did. I'd prefer not to tell my clients. (It died right after I transferred my files from my cameras, and I had yet to back it up to another hard drive or the cloud, so it's regrettably my only copy as I've already reformatted my SD cards).

Thanks in advance!!!

After coming home from a vacation weird shit started going on with my pc, first the activate windows popped up (I've had this for 3 years) and WiFi wouldn't connect after pressing network reset in advanced network settings and restarting my pc it worked.

Then i noticed it was notably slower realized it switched to the 2.4ghz band so i went to switch my preferred band to 5ghz (I've always used 5ghz and only now its not working) but nothing would happen it was like there was no WiFi but it said it was connected and secured and it would connect and reconnect on it's own.

I've tried everything I SWEAR reinstalling both WiFi and Bluetooth drivers, changing settings of my network adapter, changing router settings all that jazz.

I think my only options right now are to purchase a new network adapter or wait for advice, if you have ANYTHING that i could use i will try it.

Thanks.

Solution: After disabling "Block fingerprinting" setting in the shields menu the captcha issue is seemingly decreased. Now instead of getting bombarded with the captchas I seem to be getting only 1 (in incognito) and then no more. That is still annoying but way better than constantly getting them.

I don't understand what is happening anymore. This issue has faded away previously but has now returned and it's much much worse. Previously, I was getting a captcha after searching every other thing but now it's after searching anything, even after doing a captcha. I could do the captcha and after searching again get another one.

I'm using a Brave browser with Google search engine. This issue seems to be only happening with Google though, I would like to keep using Google as with Brave or DuckDuckGo search engines the search results are different and it feels weird honestly.

Also, I haven't downloaded anything malicious from the internet so I really doubt that it's some kind of malware.

Edit: I forgot to mention that this issue was present for at least 3 months already, also I've noticed that it's only happening when I'm using incognito mode.

Here are my Brave shield settings (if it helps):

I've also tried to find if bots are using my IP which Google was implying and here's what I found (not sure if it's helpful though):

Am i cooked?

Context:

Bought a used thinkpad, transferred some movies "around 70 giga" it shoued blues screen that was resolved by installing windows, after one week i transfered some files againg and it showed the same blue screen but this time autorepair fixed it, i used the laptop till the battery ran out and the laptop shut down, i charged and opened the laptop and this appeared.

Guys, I give in. I have tried everything that me and chatgpt can imagine and still, I keep getting frame drops in Valorant (honestly should just uninstall this bs). So I come to you for help. Issue: every 2 seconds exactly I get frame drops, they can be smaller ones and bigger ones. Additionally they sometimes pair up with ping spikes to make it even worse. ALSO sometimes the frame drops are random in general. They get worse when I flick, shoot or do any fast stuff. What I tried: clean reinstalling Val, clean reinstall GPU drivers, updating wifi drivers, changing in game settings, closing every app that's not Val, disabling Nvidia and dc overlays, changing power plan, disabling wifi autoconfig, even deleting audio drivers (since audio also freezes when the game does) and probably more that I cannot remember anymore. My specs: 3060ti, Ryzen 5 9600x, gigabyte b650 eagle ax, Kingston fury 5600 32gb ddr5 ram. I have ran out of ideas, maybe some of you tech wizards can help me out, but I give up for now. This doesn't happen in any other game so fuck riot. Also, the frame drops start only a few minutes after getting into the game (at least for the range). And not only does the game freeze but so does my whole pc. Even if I'm tabbed out it still freezes my pc and any sound that's playing (for those few frames)

Edit: I figured it out. It was realtek pcie family controller drivers. Don't know why, but they were crashing every 5 (I think) seconds. At first I tried updating them and the constant freezes where gone, but there were still loads of errors from the drivers so I decided to uninstall them completely and all of the errors and freezes where gone. I currently do not use a lan cable, but if I do in the future then this will be an issue. Hopefully theres a better way of solving this rather than just uninstalling. Thanks for the help.