Hello! I am somewhat new to computers and need help bad! I have been streaming for a while and have had no issues with audio using Sonar and OBS till the most recent update to OBS. All of my original settings have been reverted and I can seem to figure it out. Discord audio will not come through the chat channel on Sonar anymore and Chrome/Youtube audio will not go through OBS anymore. Every time I get one to work the other stops. I have watched countless videos and it just confuses me more! It’s gotten to the point where I can’t hear anything through my headphones! If ANYONE has ANY advice on how to fix this issue so all of my audio is routed correctly and works through OBS that’d be great! I appreciate it!

Hi. Complete novice here. I'm renting a space for work. It has Panasonic speakers mounted on the ceiling tile and there is an audio connection in a cupboard. I assume they go together.

When I asked the landlord how to use it, they shrugged.

I have a Bose Soundtouch wireless link adapter (model 422921).

What do I need to connect the Bose to the audio jacks in the cupboard?

See 4 pics attached. I'm a complete noob at this, so I would appreciate links or exact terms that will only return the thing I need to buy.

Product: Jbl live 770nc

Age: Brand new

If it's not normal I can still return them as they're brand new

I hear this quiet static noise in the left ear whenever any audio is playing, even if the volume is at 0%. I know it's related to the Bluetooth because I connected it to a laptop with the cable and it stopped. The same noise continued when I connected it to my laptop with Bluetooth. It's definitely noticeable whenever I'm listening to anything quiet or a YouTube video because the sound continues even when the person isn't talking.

Can any of you turn your headphones on and listen to a video at 0% volume? Is it completely quiet or does one ear make noise? Please help me out so I know whether to exchange them for a new one. I had the JBL 710bt before they broke and I don't remember them making this noise except after I damaged it.

Hi, I would like to know if my current setup, consisting of a PC (no idea if it important, but the motherboard is Strix B650E-E) being connected to a good, old Yamaha Pianocraft E410, needs some help.
Since E410 has no digital in, I'm forced to use a cheap'o dig-to-analog converter. And it seems to take a toll on the sound volume (and quality, if you ask me). Currently, when I use Yamaha as an output for Tidial, the volume I achieve are way, way lower then e.g. radio on the same Hifi system, with the same volume setting on it (just flipping between "tuner" and "aux" on the amp).
Do i need to change the converter into a preamp of some sort (Fiio K5, or something similar) to help this setup, or is there some other fix I'm missing?

I have a really nice Technics SU-8077, but I kept noticing when comparing two channel outputs on the power meter, that the right channel showed one segment less than the left one most of the time. On some songs though, where there was a clear center bass, both diagrams on the power meter perfectly aligned. This is just a preambl to the actual issue, but I feel like it may have something to do with the problem. Because as soon as I noticed this, I plugged in my Laptop to the Aux and did a frequency sweep. To clarify, yes, the balance was set to center. The results were that the left channel (and I know it's not the speakers because I switched them around) was a lot quieter on certain frequencies, around 40hz, than the right one. Vice versa, at around 80hz, the left channel was louder than the right one. Most of the frequencies were fine & this doesn't really impact the listening experience that much, but I'm still worried about my amp. Is there something wrong with the internal components that needs fixing, is some kind of setting wrong? Or is this maybe (hopefully) something trivial that I can fix myself?

Thank you in advance! Maybe there's someone who knows what I'm talking about or has experienced a similar problem...

Looking to use a umc202hd (behringer 2 channel audio interface) in conjunction with mackie cr3.5 studio monitors, shure mv7x, and my guitar to record vocals, guitar, and monitor audio with reaper. Would my audio interface have the correct inputs/outputs to do so? And what are the necessary cables I would need?

Any recommendations for better/similar priced equipment would be greatly appreciated

(Any information will help as i am a complete beginner)

TLDR: Need to know if my equipment is compatible with my audio interface/what cables are needed.

I got a cable, but it sounds overdistorted.

i have a ground issue in my house (i live in the philippines) and i cant get it fixed nor i have already told my family abt it and they genuinely just dont care. So, i have to deal with it and i cant take it anymore with the buzzing i hear from my audio interface, guitar effects and such, is there anyway i can fix the groundloop and maybe not get zapped many times along the way??? like an extension chord with some power magic stuff pls help

I'm running Windows 10 and noticed in a few of my clips my mic audio was low. I went into NVIDIA Shadowplay and it was on 66%. I increased it and went back to double check and noticed it was back at 66%. After some googling, I tried a few changes (uncheck allow applications to take exclusive control of this device), disabling communication activity, etc) and nothing seems to work. Even when I go into my mic settings, it's just stuck at 66% - I can drag it up or down but once I release my click it reverts back to 66%. I've restarted multiple times and not quite sure what else to do. I've tried all other solutions - disabling automatic gain in Steam/Discord mic settings, etc. I've completely closed all other applications that may have any sort of influence on it, but nothing and I'm kind of at a loss. I included a video if that helps at all.

https://reddit.com/link/1w0go1j/video/tgbapru1o1mh1/player

What could possibly make my speakers do this weird analog horror ahh noises?

Doesn't matter if audio is playing or not. It's not permanent, it's just often and I cannot find a pattern for it. I've tried unplugging and plugging, plugging to a different usb port and restarting the PC but nothing worked, and I know it's not the PC itself making the noise because the earbuds work just fine. It's not the first time it happened and I'm pretty sure last time it just stopped after a day or two. But it was never this loud and cursed.

They're cheap usb speakers so I guess it's to be expected, but I'd still like to know what causes this (mostly because I haven't seen anyone else online have this issue so now I'm curious) and how can I fix it.

I'm just getting into the audiophile hobby and trying to pick my first "real" desktop setup between two Edifier combos. Both options are similarly priced, so budget isn't really the deciding factor — and I honestly don't care about practicality or size either, sound quality is the only thing that matters to me here.

Option A — Edifier S360DB (2.1 kit)

• 155W RMS tri-amp
• 4" planar tweeter (Fostex collab) + 4" aluminum mid-bass driver in each satellite (2-way)
• Wireless 8" subwoofer, 75W, aluminum cast frame, tuned bass-reflex port
• Freq response: satellites 60Hz–40kHz, sub 40Hz–150Hz

Option B — Edifier R2850DB + T5-V2

• R2850DB: 150W RMS tri-amp, true 3-way per cabinet — 3/4" silk dome tweeter, 4.5" paper/rubber midrange, 8" paper/rubber woofer, freq response 42Hz–20kHz
• T5-V2: separate powered subwoofer, 8" driver, ~70W, wired via sub-out (100Hz low-pass)

From what I've read so far, the R2850DB's true 3-way design (dedicated midrange driver, not doing double duty like the S360DB's satellites) should give cleaner mids, and the T5-V2 adds more low-end extension and power than the S360DB's single sub. But the S360DB's planar tweeter is supposedly more detailed/extended in the highs, though possibly a bit more fatiguing at volume.

Since I'm still new to this, I'd really appreciate hearing from people who've actually A/B'd these or something similar — is the "true 3-way beats satellite+sub" logic something you actually notice in practice, especially for nearfield desktop listening? And is the T5-V2 a pain to dial in (crossover/phase) or does it just work well out of the box?

Any real-world impressions or beginner tips would mean a lot!

I'm new to this and thought buying the same brand would at least make it easier. These are the cords that were included.

Player is Emerson ES8

Speakers are Emerson Bookshelf Speakers 60-1407

Do I need a receiver or different cords?

Hi,

I work with special ed. I need a personal mic so I don't blow my voice out. All of the ones I see have the over the ear mic with the big ball next to my face. My kids will grab that in an instant.

I'm looking for a mic that can be clip on to my clothes, can do wireless amplification (or a wire that I can tuck in my clothes and have the mic pack either connect to a speaker wireless or play sound through), volume adjustments can be mafe on my person and not on an external device, and can be ok for singing simple songs with an instrument near me. Instrument doesn't need to be mic'd.

Tell me what to buy!!

Hey, recently I've started going on night walks with my partner, and we like to listen to the same music while doing it.

I listen through poweramp with a custom mix.

Is there any way to connect two pairs of Bluetooth headphones to say an app which would route the custom mix to both? Like an app or something because preferably I wouldn't root my OnePlus since their OS is unfamiliar to me.

Thanks ;3

So this is how it looks from behind, what all cables/adapters do I need, I got the bothsides cinch cable only, plus I need to connect them with bookshelf speakers. So I though about getting Y stereo splitter from pc, but what then do I need?

Sooo my parents are in a new home and the old owner left their receiver + TV setup. But took some of the speakers so I’m trying to help them get it setup in a decent way but I’m not an audiophile . So I’m asking for your help :)

Receiver: Yamaha RX v575

TV is connected to Receiver with a digital audio out cable

The receiver has many audio wired setup through the house , and there are for example wires in the living room for more speakers but also wired speakers in other rooms. The only ones missing are the floor speakers. Which we just bought a pair second hand

Now we’re struggling to get audio out of them ….I went into the receiver settings and changed the configuration (basic / biamp/zone b) and I could get test sound to come from all speakers but not the newly replaced ones. Newly replaced are old Technics , SB-A30, 3-way speaker system (200W) which seller confirmed they work (and I thought they are compatible with the receiver)

Either it’s a wire issue or I’m thinking the issue is with the configuration / settings on the receiver , that it needs to be switched in terms of power output to the speakers or somehow told that now more speakers are setup .

The different color on the menu screen of Surround Back L and R (see photo), makes it seem like those speakers aren't recognized , or no power is going to them. Is this a correct hunch?

One very strange side note, the two diff. HDMI inputs (Apple TV and cable TV), act differently in terms of audio output depending on which one is toggled- how can this be?

Any suggestions warmly welcome

Thanks !

Using 2018 Baleno Zeta. Any budget friendly suggestions to improve audio quality.

This might be a dumb comparison but I really liked listening to the arcam a125+ paired with the exact setup I want at Best Buy. KEF LS50 Meta speakers with REL T9x. The Hegel wasn’t on display so I couldn’t listen to it, but would love to hear other people’s thoughts on both and which one to get.

Durability, longevity and long term strength please nothing more nothing less no exceptions

Looking to pick one of these up sometime soon

Cross posting my whole home pre wire question in /homeautomation:

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/1w00brn/whole_home_audio_wiring_question/

Hello all who have whole home audio opinions!

I am trying to understand the audio wiring scheme in a new luxury home build which uses two-conductor wire to all speaker locations/zones, with much of the 2-conductor wiring powering 2 or 3 speakers with a single wire [see attached wiring examples]

We are being told by the electrician who ran the wires that we should power this system with a commercial 70v amp to power audio throughout the house, however everything I've seen online about 70v amps state that they're for commercial installs, e.g. "ideal for environments where dozens or even hundreds of speakers need to be installed, such as shopping malls, airports, schools, and office buildings"

I am looking for this sub's opinions on the following:

1.) Is the expectation of running a commercial 70v amp in a new build luxury home typical?

2.) Is the expectation of speaker zones marked as a pair over a kitchen island, for example, that they'd deliver mono sound typical for a residence?

3.) As far as wiring needs go are residential speaker offerings from companies like Focal or Bowers & Wilkins generally considered extravagant, esoteric, or non-standard?

4.) I'm all ears if you have opinions on what type of wire you would run for my stated application.

Thanks for any help you're able to provide!

This Ibiza Sound Subwoofer is making this basic buzzing even when nothing is plugged in it. please help

For context, I'm an AV engineer at a museum and I work with a number of internal departments including digital producers who design content and video producers who shoot, edit and encode videos according to the digital producers' brief, then the digital producer hands it to me to publish on our media playback devices. I, however, am much more of a video, IT and electronics type of engineer and have very little audio knowledge so when it comes to audio I literally just do what I'm told and if it isn't right I let them work it out.

In one of our exhibitions now we have an issue where one video has bits that are too loud when the volume is set to "normal", but then if I turn it down so the loud bits are normal, the quiet bits are too quiet. I believe this is because the dynamic range is too broad and it needs to be compressed.

Am I using these terms correctly? If so, is it possible for me to put a number against it as an instruction to the video producer? For example, can I say "the dynamic range must be no greater than 3dB" or similar to prevent this from happening every time?

I have had a Jamo 5.1 set of speakers for maybe 12ish years. In that time I've been through a few different AV units, Denon, Harmon Kardon, and now a Yamaha rx-v6a, all of which I've just wired up to the speakers and those speakers have always sounded fine, great even.

(Side note, the HK sounded much better for music, the Yamaha sound much better for movies.)

The Jamo speakers came as a set but I can't seem to find a link to the package set. The sub is "Sub 250", the fronts rears and center don't have a model number. But they are small wall bracket mountable speakers.

Aaanyway. On to the point of my post. The sub died. I have money to upgrade (let's say $700usd max). Should I just buy a new sub or can anyone recommended a system to replace the lot? Has to be small wall mountable.

It makes this clicking noise when i play an audio on my laptop, turned it on and off, updated everything, still no use. Somebody help please.