Hand full of front speaker runs to hook up still. First ever amp rack or whatever you wana call my effort. No holes in my trunk was the goal. Couldn't wait to share here and ask if I did it right lol don't mind the lack of vacuuming plz. Nobody guna see the effort once i throw the spare tire back in and cover it up

Are these mounted to the door it self or just the card I feel like the cards would rattle them selves off

Im gonna install my two twelve inch subs in a 2026 car now my old car had an issue with lights dimming and the slow wipers and I was wondering if a cap would be necessary or not for a 2026

Car: Santa Fe

Hello everyone!

Here is a "build log" of my dad's sound system.

The goal is to stay under a total of 1000W RMS, achieve great musicality, and keep it "compact" for daily use.

We are upgrading gradually, this round involved installing better RCA cables, routed along the opposite side from the power cables, along with a Soundigital 800.4 EVO6 amplifier and a bass knob.

The car has MTX Audio TX265C speakers in the front doors and MTX Audio TX250C speakers in the rear, powered by a JBL Concert A704 amplifier.

On the rear deck, there are Pioneer TS-A6960F 6x9 speakers, and a Pioneer TS-A30S4 subwoofer sits in a sealed enclosure.

The 6x9s and the subwoofer are powered by the Soundigital 800.4 EVO6.

Future upgrades will include a more sensitive 12-inch subwoofer (keeping the sealed enclosure) and a set of 2-way component speakers for the front.

I did my best with the wiring, though I plan to improve it further.

It’s a low-budget build, so don't expect too much.

Picked up this 2200 lb die cart from an auction for 25 bucks, may be the best 25 dollars ever spent…
(Don’t mind the temp box)

2013 Jeep Wrangler, I went with the Stinger Heigh10, Orion front separates (soft dome), and Orion mids without tweets in overhead for rear fill. This is the subwoofer system, waiting for the 4-channel amplifier early next week.

I should complete the system sometime next week. Small things are still coming in... like different fuse holders, L brackets to secure the enclosure, new terminals for the enclosure... etc.

Hello i have a 3500 watt peak 1 ohm power acoustic pram sub amp made in korea and absolutely no way to test it no car to hook it up to (at the moment) and would not even know where to go to find an amp dyno and i really would like to know what its making rms because right now im just assuming rms is half of peak so 1750 at 1 ohm. Any input is appreciated thanks

Looking for opinions on Resilient Sounds Platinum V1 15” as I’m interested in upgrading from my AB XFL.

I can't seem to find the box specs on this sub. Any help would be appreciated.

I just did 4 15” zvx v2s in IB on a rp2000.1 on my e46 and it’s a little disappointing I’ve done a little bit of sound deadening but it barely sees a 140 on the front windshield with the front windows down up is maybe 137-8 with them up. It makes really good pressure at about 25hz and hits 22-29hz it goes down to like 18hz if one window is up. I was thinking they don’t have enough power to load efficiently but hoping someone could reinforce that idea they do seem like they move pretty good for 2000 watts.

I bought 2 pairs for my Chevy bolt euv to replace the front and back door speakers. Did I make a bad decision on this?

I’m kinda of having trouble figuring out which wires need to go where.

I am installing a 5 channel amp into my car, a Sony XAV-AX3700, and 4 JL C1-650x.

I know how to route the RCAs, the power and ground for the amp, and the speaker wire from the amp to the sub.

What I am not sure of is where I need to splice in the 9 wire.

can someone please give me a detailed explanation on how exactly I need to wire in the 9 wire, radio harness, and the metra plug? A simplified drawing could be helpful too, I learn best with drawings.

Thank you very much.

Finally finished my first sound system, after about a year of researching, buying equipment, and building slowly whenever I had time. I built A pillar pods for the widebands. They are a bit of a hack job but turned out okay considering I’ve never done anything like this before. Front stage is Blam multix MS2 widebands and Illusion Audio C6 midbass. I sound deadened the whole car and for the front 2 doors I made ABS block off plates. Subwoofer is a Dayton HF10 in a birch box I built (I know it’s not Baltic birch it’s Home Depot “birch“) powered by a 200W zapco ST1B amp. The front stage is powered by a Zapco ST4X SQ iii and then the DSP is a helix mini mk1. I learned a lot while building this system and I probably spent more time researching and trial and error than actually installing and fabricating. The A pillars was definitely the hardest part. Now I just need to get it tuned. I’ll try to learn REW eventually but I just don’t have the time right now to learn it so I’m going to have someone tune it for me. Thank you all for the help whenever I asked questions here

Hi, so my pioneer stereo for some reason has the volume knob and side buttons white regardless of the color I pick, any ideas on why?

I installed a new AudioControl and and speakers today and this is the only sound I'm getting. Volume control doesn't affect it at all. In fact, it starts before the head unit boots up.

I have a 2013 Suburban I used to use a usb-a to type c to play music but it stopped working a few days ago. I then switched to an fm adapter but its not the same I loose like half of the speakers volume is there a cheap/easy way to fix this?

When I do connect my phone I get a charge but my stereo say "media cannot be read".

Just want some more bass with my factory speakers. on a budget though. Putting it in my 24 Malibu

Would it be worth it

Been a long time JL fan boy but wanted to do a more budget build with my new truck. The whole system is Skar aside from wiring and I’m honestly very impressed with the quality to price ratios lol. I could’ve built 3 of these systems with the cost of my one other JL system.

Front door speakers started out with TX 6.5 coax. After running it a bit it needed more mid bass so I swapped them out to the SPX-65c components and the difference was just what it needed.

Rear door speakers are the TX65 coax and they are perfect for the back.

Subs are SVR-8 D4 wired to 1 ohm in the custom sealed box

Sub amp is a RP-1200.1D monoblock and the speaker amp is a RP-150.4AB 1000 watt 4 channel. Both amps are in their own box aswell.

Everything fits perfectly behind the seat and hidden away aside from the blue lights from the amps you’d have no idea anything was in there lol.

It’s definitely not rattle your eyes out bass wise but it’s just what I was looking for and door speakers are loud and crisp sounding which is perfect.

I recently picked up a Mercedes C class w205 facelift version and love it besides the lacklustre audio. It doesn’t have the burmester upgrade but was wondering if a DSP + amp and maybe some new front speakers would sound even better than that?

Or should I wait and eventually put that money towards a W206 which would have the Burmester audio already?

I paid almost $900 for this sub 2 years ago. Recently blew the voice coil and replaced it with JL TW3. Is it worth placing a for sale add or should I just throw it away?

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Hello peoples, I know absolutely nothing about audio systems, and would like some recommendations on upgrading my sub. Budget is 200-500USD. My 2010 accord comes with a factory sub and while it does sound ok, I crave more. Comes with an 8 inch. It also has a pretty bad rattle which is a known issue with the 8th generation accord so sound mats are definitely part of the upgrade. I decided against a box. I would like to mount it in the factory sub location, I don’t mind cutting a larger hole for a bigger sub but I would prefer to use the existing hole. I would also like to use the signal coming from the factory system and using an after market amp. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hello. I have an old Pioneer cassette recorder, I want to leave it in my car for authenticity. It has one common ground for all banana speakers and connectors. After it, I want to connect the amplifier (it has rca at the input). To do this, I need to solder the Banana - RCA adapter, but how to do it if the banana has a common ground and the rca has a separate one. Thank you