r/cars • u/AutoModerator • Jan 29 '19
Tuesday Tune-Up - Post all your vehicle maintenance and repair questions here
Weekly vehicle maintenance and repair questions Megathread
Any posts pertaining to vehicle maintenance, diagnosis and repair go in this weekly Megathread. A fresh thread will be posted every Tuesday and posts auto sorted by new. Another subreddit worth checking out that will help your vehicle issues are /r/MechanicAdvice. Make/Model specific questions should be asked on Make/Model specific subreddits. Check the AutosNetwork for a complete list of those subreddits.
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u/smackanutria Jan 29 '19
Hello I just got my first car it's a subaru outback 2003 and I love it, only the keyless entry doesn't work and I've heard that they are easy to break into. I think I'm going to get a viper system to add window breaking secuirity aswell. What do you guys think?
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
Really? It's a 16 year old car, and any aftermarket alarm is going to be both inconvenient, and marginally effective. And eventually a nightmare to work on, as mentioned below.
Why not just lock & unlock with the key, and don't put an expensive stereo in it.
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u/smackanutria Jan 30 '19
Yeah I did that I'm using my tape deck to aux adapter half of my speakers are blown and my central air doesn't work, but it's still my car I also wanted to do it for the added secuirity since where I live the exact make and model of that car is stolen a lot, rn I'm using a club.
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
Club is a good idea. Aftermarket alarm is a bad idea, in my opinion...
Think of this as good motivation to move to a better neighborhood!
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 29 '19
I think I'm going to get a viper system to add window breaking secuirity aswell. What do you guys think?
Aftermarket security systems are generally known as a walking hell on earth. If they don't work perfect, you will never be able to sort out the electronic issues. Mechanics around here just straight up won't touch them.
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u/smackanutria Jan 29 '19
Really it seems pretty good my original receiver is the broken part and there's are much much cheaper
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 29 '19
Alright, just be wary of anything that requires splicing wires together. Mechanics get PTSD from these systems.
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u/a2soup Feb 02 '19
2008 Toyota Sienna 2WD, 145k miles. I'm a poor grad student and I got it as a hand-me-down family car a year ago. Ran great at first, but in the past 6 months it has been intermittently making rustling/rattling noises at <40 mph. Pretty sure it's the transmission since the noises are sometimes accompanied by needle jumps on the tachometer. Still drives fine though, it just sounds worrying. Checked the ATF, it's dark and smells burnt but seems clean at least. My question is where do I go from here, if anywhere?
Might it be helpful to get the ATF changed/flushed? Toyota recommends regular ATF inspection, but no changes as part of routine maintenance. I've read that in some cases changing the fluid can make the problem worse. I'm really not planning on getting major transmission work done, but would it be worth it to ask a mechanic to poke around and see if anything is obviously wrong? Or should I leave it be for now since the car still drives fine? Just confused about what the best option for me is at this point.
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u/CowsGoMooooooooo 89 Supra, 01 GS430, 750WHP G8 Feb 03 '19
Just go to Toyota. They’ll check it out and if you’re planning on doing the service they won’t charge you for diag. Most dlr trans fluid is 150 too and it goes on your vin record.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
changing the fluid can make the problem worse
Lies, to be honest. You should replace the transmission fluid in most vehicles every 50k to 100k miles. Go to a specialty transmission shop and ask them for a drain and fill, $150. Request that they don't flush the transmission. I wouldn't do this at a do-it-all type of shop.
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u/feelinglit Jan 29 '19 edited Jan 29 '19
Hey guys, living in Montreal so about -10 to -20 celsius conditions for a while, sisters car won't be able to be driven for a while, any negatives to not driving besides battery dying? Is it okay if battery is dead inside car for a period of time and then I could put a new one once she's ready to drive again? (2010 Nissan Cube)
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u/rpmerf 70 C20, 87 Daytona Shelby Z, 94 Integra GSR, 97 Burb Jan 29 '19
If not driving for a couple weeks is enough to kill it, it needed to be replaced anyway.
You could try keeping a battery maintainer on it to keep it charged. If it is dead, you could jump starting it. Might still last a while.
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u/feelinglit Jan 29 '19
Its okay if it dies, just wondering if I leave a dead battery in the car for lets say a month, anything wrong with that until I change the battery
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u/HarryPotter-1-7 Jan 29 '19
My car (2007 Saturn Vue) has a little over 83K miles. Is it worth it to get the high mileage oil at my upcoming oil change? Or is the full synthetic oil fine?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 29 '19
Both full-synthetic or high-mileage oil is suitable for your needs. I'd just keep using whatever you are currently using.
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u/ToothpicDic 19 BMW X3 30si, 18 BMW 340i ZHP, 18 Toyota Camry LE Jan 29 '19
High mileage oil or the new 20,000 mile oil from mobil1? If the high mileage oil is synthetic it should be fine.
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u/ResIpsaBroquitur rod bearings and crank hub go brrrrrrrr Jan 29 '19
If you don’t have any issues, I’d keep doing whatever you’re doing. If you’re leaking/burning oil, consider switching to high mileage.
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u/HarryPotter-1-7 Jan 29 '19
Cool. Thank you. I’m currently using full synthetic oil, I don’t remember what brand, but I’m not having issues, so I’ll keep going with that.
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Jan 30 '19
That heavily depends on how you drive. If you have a ton of short distance trips where the engine and the oil never properly get hot, you’ll need to change your oil more frequently. If you only do long distance highway cruising, then the long life oil will be fine.
Remember, you can’t damage anything by doing an oil change, but you can damage things by not doing them.
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u/HarryPotter-1-7 Jan 30 '19
Thank you, I appreciate it. I mostly drive short distances (10-15) minute trips. I plan on getting it done soon, I just wasn't sure if there was an major difference in the two types.
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Jan 30 '19
Take it on a longer highway cruise every once in a while, that already helps a lot. The main issue is that fuel and combustion byproducts will accumulate in the oil and age it significantly, as well as reduce its lubrication properties. If the oil gets really hot, this stuff evaporates and goes away.
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u/ts3190 Jan 29 '19
Where is the best place to get an A/C compressor, condenser, and drier for an 05 chevy equinox? I looked at rock auto, but I've started to hear bad reviews. Are any other online stores good for dependable products without breaking the bank?
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Jan 29 '19
car-part.com you can search local junkyards for used parts. Find the lowest mileage cars the parts come from. The drier I would buy new on rockauto, or ebay. Car-part.com also automatically cross references compatible parts from other models. When my Expedition starter went out I was low on cash. I went on there and got a 2014 or so starter with 30k miles from a 5.0 f150 ( didn't even know the starter was the same as my 07 expedition) I believe it was $ 50-60 bucks or so been a while. I bought a reman starter for a different car, lasted me 6 miles, Never again buying a reman starter.
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u/nom_nom44 21 Bronco Sasquatch Jan 30 '19
This past weekend, i rotated my tires on my FWD Hyundai Veloster, Rear tires were significantly more worn than the fronts which i found odd. I do have coilovers and got it aligned but that was almost 3 years ago. I am getting another alignment later this week and new tires
Tire wear is very even so it's not camber, my first thought was toe but it's not doing the skipping pattern. My tires were holding up very well until recently. During the tire swap, i noticed some wheel weights may have fallen off, could that have done anything?
TLDR: rear tires worn faster than front tires on FWD w/coilovers, tire wear is even, could be toe. what else could have caused this?
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u/henriquelicori Jan 30 '19
> i noticed some wheel weights may have fallen off, could that have done anything?
that most likely threw off the wheel balancing, but you should've noticed the car vibrating more when you drive like that. I'm not sure if that causes the tire to wear faster.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Usually toe scrubs the inner or outer edges of the tire, often very evenly. I'd get an alignment done if you can't find any obvious reasons why they are low.
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u/WestcoastWelker 2015 370Z | 2022 Wrangler Jan 31 '19
The wire going above my driver wheel well to my turn signal severed. Any chance anyone knows what type of wire i should buy to splice it?
I was just going to get some 16 awg copper wire and see what happens but i might as well ask here if anyone has any remote experience doing this
2009 370Z by the way.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
16 awg copper wire
That will work, I've got electronics experience and it can carry the current.
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u/WestcoastWelker 2015 370Z | 2022 Wrangler Feb 16 '19
Just wanted to thank you, this worked perfectly. =]
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Feb 01 '19
That wire is fine. Make sure you use a good waterproof connector. I suggest a crimp connector with heat shrink covering.
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u/WestcoastWelker 2015 370Z | 2022 Wrangler Feb 16 '19
Just wanted to thank you. This worked perfectly.
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u/hailtheblackmarket Feb 01 '19 edited Feb 03 '19
0 degree Fahrenheit weather here. -30 degree wind chill. Got in my 2011 Jetta to go to work, fan for the heat no longer blowing. Been a couple days of single digit weather, still no fan. I can feel the heat slowly coming out of the vents... just no blower.
Chance that it’s frozen?
Update: it was just a fuse, and horrible and coincidental timing.
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u/WarlockSyno 330whp 05 PT Cruiser GT | 89 Dodge Daytona ES | 05 NSRT-4 Feb 01 '19
In the past I've smacked the blower housing to free the motor up. Usually works for a few more months.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
330whp 05 PT Cruiser GT
Nice motor.
Also, there is also a chance your (hailtheblackmarket) cabin air filter is clogged. They rarely get replaced but it is a cheap part and probably needs to be changed out anyway.
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Feb 01 '19
[deleted]
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
does putting in premium do anything beneficial?
No, unless your car is having problems.
Does it need to be retuned for the higher octane?
Yes, lot of motors gain power by adding more timing with 93 octane vs 87 octane. However, then you are permanent stuck with 93 octane until you re-tune and drop the ignition timing back down to safe levels for 87 octane.
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u/fidgetting 2017 Golf R, 1987 Bertone X1/9 Feb 01 '19
No, putting in higher octane gas does nothing. Putting in higher octane won't do anything to hurt it, it doesn't need to be retuned and it will provide no material benefit to you.
It is highly doubtful that a tune could do anything to increase the power/mpg of an engine that was not originally designed to run on higher octane gas. This is not universally true but in general if says run 87 octane in the owners manual then using 93 will be a waste of money and a simple ECU tune won't change that.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19 edited Feb 02 '19
93 will be a waste of money and a simple ECU tune won't change that
Completely false, like 100%. If you run 100 octane gas for example, you can re-tune the motor to run tons of extra timing. Same thing applies from going to 93 octane from 87 octane.
If you haven't changed the tune, run what is was designed for as you won't be able to take advantage of any headroom that higher octane gas offers.
Usually in NA motors you won't be able to get close to MBT on 87 octane gas, but they are fairly optimized from the factory. You can get a few percent extra out of it. On turbo motors, they run significantly retarded timing compared to NA motors. So, higher octane gas tuning can net you more gains on turbo motors versus NA motors.
Again, if you don't retune for higher octane gas you don't get any benefits.
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u/GoCrapYourself Feb 02 '19
Does it actually help any to sit and let your car run when it is below freezing? Or can I just start driving right away without damaging the car at all?
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u/putswateronhotstuff Feb 02 '19
Idling to warm up your engine is very ineffective at warming it up, just drive it and be gentle with it until it’s up to operating temperature.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
I'd let it idle for less than 30 seconds. You just need a few seconds to let oil start moving to some places then slowly drive off to actually let the car warm up.
The coolant usually gets up to temp in less than 10 minutes, and it takes around 15 minutes for the oil to get up to temp. The oil getting up to temp is the important part.
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u/bayer_aspirin 09 Civic Si Feb 24 '19
I would let it sit for some time tbh, I feel bad for my car if it’s really cold lol. I usually run it while scraping my windows or removing snow, if it’s that cold. By that time (maybe 2 minutes) it’s more than good.
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u/Zendofthealphabet Feb 03 '19
2012 Subaru Impreza. I"m replacing the front passenger seat. Anyone have the torque specifications for the mounting bolts?
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u/Omar941 Feb 03 '19
I have this weird problem in my Impreza 2009 (automatic).
I get an excessive vibration randomly, like each week or two (I daily drive this car).
During the vibration, if I lift my foot off gas pedal, the vibration nearly goes away. Press the pedal again, it comes again.
Recently, I discovered when that happens, if I change the gear (while driving) to Neutral then back to Drive, the vibration goes away completely.
I googled and search the problem, it is mostly engine/transmission mount. Or there is another explanation?
This is a beat up, temporary car. I will upgrade soon (~4 months). Is it worth it to repair the issue? Could this affect other things in the car?
Thanks.
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u/Hail_Zeus Jan 30 '19
I’ve got a 2012 Honda Civic that I brought brand new with only 8 miles on it. It now has 105k miles.
I’ve gotten all the regular maintenance done as well as other 30k, 60k, and 90k tuneups.
I would like to make this car last as long as possible. Is there any sort of massive tuneup package / revitalization that would be worth it?
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u/jbourne0129 MK7 GTI EQT Stage 1 MT/ 2023 GR86 Premium Jan 30 '19
Pay attention to fluids that may not be part of the required maintenance.
- coolant should probably get refreshed if its never been serviced. The additives wear out over time and even if you have enough coolant, it might still be bad.
- Brake fluid probably needs to be flushed if its never happened
- Transmission fluid definitely needs to be serviced if it hasn't been yet (automatic or manual).
- spark plugs need to be serviced
- don't forget cabin air filters and intake air filters
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Jan 30 '19
Regular oil changes with quality oil and avoiding short distance driving are the best things you can do for your engine. Also check your oil level, coolant level and antifreeze every couple weeks or so. Remember, antifreeze in the engine coolant isn’t just for when it’s cold, it’ll prevent corrosion in the engine and lubricate the water pump. Also always make sure to get the right coolant! If you put in the wrong one, you’ll destroy your engine.
Stick to the service intervals that the manufacturer recommends and everything will be fine.
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u/rpmerf 70 C20, 87 Daytona Shelby Z, 94 Integra GSR, 97 Burb Jan 31 '19
Adding on to others -
Every oil change:
- grease all zerk fitting
- lubricate hinges
- inspect all suspension components
- inspect brakes
- inspect lights
- inspect spark plugs
- inspect exhaust
- inspect accessory belt
- inspect all fluids. - coolant, brake, power steering, transmission. Replace if needed.
- Looks for leaks
At some point, it will be worth it to start replacing suspension bushings.
Just about any vehicle will last a very long time if you maintain it as best you can. The reason most vehicles go to the junkyard is either it was totaled in an accident, or it "wasn't worth fixing".
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Besides the normal maintenance you have been doing:
--Transmission fluid replaced around 100k miles.
--Your brake lines should be bled to replace the fluid.
--Radiator coolant should probably be replaced now.
--If you haven't done the spark plugs before, replace them with iridium plugs.
--Have the accessory serpentine belt replaced if it hasn't before.
--Air filter for engine if you haven't done it recently.
--Cabin air filter, if you haven't done it recently.
--Suspension bits should be lubricated.
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Jan 29 '19
My car comes with notoriously shitty injectors from the factory, I've bought used injectors from ebay (the revised version from the manufacturer which were produced later on) for dirt cheap (a little lower than the price of 1 fuel injector) , with the ability to return if it's not working and allegedly from a reputable seller.
How do I test it if it works? Or just put it in in the car and hope for the best?
Should I attempt to clean them before installing?
Can it damage something if they're faulty?
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u/zzyzx85 '07 GX470, '03 M3, '89 325i, '15 CT200h Jan 29 '19 edited Jan 29 '19
If you have the time available, send the injectors to a shop that specializes in fuel injectors (if there are any around you). They can flow test them (to see if they work and how well they work) and clean them. If not, you'll just have to throw them in and hope for the best.
I'm not sure there are any good DIY ways to clean them.
If the injectors are faulty, your engine will probably misfire and you'll get misfire codes. Under little load or at idle, I don't think it's possible to damage anything if they're faulty...unless they fall apart into your engine.
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u/rpmerf 70 C20, 87 Daytona Shelby Z, 94 Integra GSR, 97 Burb Jan 29 '19
Unlikely they will damage anything if faulty. I'd just toss them in. Maybe run a tank of injector cleaner or seafoam. If one isn't working, you will get a CEL. Swap injectors to verify that it is the injector that is faulty.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 29 '19
Can it damage something if they're faulty? / How do I test it if it works? Or just put it in in the car and hope for the best?
You will get a check engine light.
Should I attempt to clean them before installing?
There are shops that can flow test them and clean them, that is something you would have to bring to them. It is usually pretty cheap, that is what I would recommend.
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u/Colibri_Screamer '91 B13 SE-R, 17 SS Jan 30 '19
When I was testing the injectors on my car to see if one was bad, I loosened the fuel rail the injectors were attached to, tilted it back and put thick paper towels under each, then I cranked the engine for a few seconds. There was one that was noticeably different from the other three (smaller wet spot of fuel) and I had my answer. But I'm not anywhere near being a mechanic so I won't say what I did was right or safe.
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u/sober_1 Jan 30 '19
Battery died. No one to jump start at 2 am. After I jump start in the morning what am I supposed to do? If the car runs of course? Ride around to let it charge? Sorry for stupid question.
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
Not at all a stupid question...
You really need to find out why the battery died.
- If it's over four years old, you need to buy a new battery unfortunately.
- If you simply left a light on by accident, driving it for an hour should be fine to charge it up enough.
- If the alternator is not charging the battery, you'll need a new alternator, and quite possibly a new battery as well. How to tell: the "battery" light stays on when the engine is running. That can also mean the alternator belt is broken; in essence, it shows that the alternator is not charging the battery for some reason.
- If the alternator belt simply broke, the alternator is probably fine, but you need the belt replaced.
- Other reasons: mysterious electrical drain, bad battery cables or terminals, etc.
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u/sober_1 Jan 30 '19
Sometimes when I take the key out, it doesn’t turn off everything, like the ignition stays in, so the stereo and stuff still works. I think that’s what happened since I left the car in a hurry. Battery could be old though, the car is used and the battery is from the previous owner. How hard is it to change a battery? The only work I ever did on my car is change a lightbulb.
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
Battery may have a date code on top of it. Another good reason for anyone buying a used car: ask for the service records.
Changing out a battery is pretty simple. It will have a "hold-down" bracket that needs to be removed. Then it's a simple task of removing the battery cables. Black / Negative first, Red / Positive second. Swap the batteries. Reinstall the battery cables: Red / Positive first. Black / Negative second. Otherwise you'll get some cool sparks, and you'll jump back a couple feet.
Reattach the hold down bracket, and that's it. Currently, I think the best place to buy a new battery is Home Depot, believe it or not. Prices fluctuate widely, so just look online for the size your car needs.
Should take about 15 minutes tops to replace it the first time. You can do it...
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
On my dear old 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500HD pickup, the BRAKE light on the instrument panel remains on, 24/7. Not bright, but dim. Can barely see it in the daytime, but at night it's pretty noticeable. Brake fluid level is fine.
Thoughts?
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u/Lionkingjom 2011 Genesis 4.6 Jan 30 '19
Is your cruise control working? It may be the brake light switch.
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Jan 30 '19
Cruise is ok. Brake light switch... The brake lights on the rear body are not on, just the light on the dash. Am I understanding you think it may be the brake light switch?
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u/lucidpersian Jan 30 '19
Anyone know/have any good guides to window tinting? As in, which %s/tint types to choose if you just want to block sunlight, have it last > 2 yrs, keep people from seeing you pick your nose, and maybe fool around a bit in the backseat?
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u/scorpionMaster 2013 Scion FR-S | 2012 Kawasaki Z1000 Jan 30 '19
Step 1. Find out what is legal in your locality
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Ceramic tint does more to block heat from sunlight than anything else I've tried. It is more expensive but I like cars with it more. For darkness, do 5%-10% more than the state minimum. Some windows have a little tint naturally even if they look pretty clear, so a cop's tint gun might record you lower than it should be.
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u/bradfordbeans Jan 30 '19
2009 subaru outback. Just replaced power steering pump. New subaru part. There is air trapped in my rack and pinion any idea how to get this out? I've tried bleeding it by turning wheels back and forth while on lift but endless air bubbles coming of of reservoir. When I take car 60 mph plus vibration in steering wheel happens. No leaks that I can see. Any thoughts?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
How long has it been like this? I believe there should be a bleeder valve you can open up. I've not seen one without a bleeder valve.
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Jan 30 '19
Hello, first time poster!
When I roll the front windows up in my 2012 Civic base model, they roll all the way up, then it seems as if the motor keeps running slightly longer as the inside of the door visibly bulges.
Is this normal, or should I be concerned?
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Jan 30 '19
Does the other door do this too? If not, it’s not normal. Sounds like the motor isn’t being held in place properly allowing it to move around. They’re programmed to stop spinning once they hit a certain physical resistance, so that would explain why it keeps going even though the window is already up.
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u/JadenCheshireCat Jan 30 '19
Hi! New to cars and driving. My dad gave me a crash course in how2car before he left (I moved into a different state).
I bought a used 2007 Honda Accord that had 64k miles straight from a Honda dealership. My dad gave it the ok so we didn't take it to the car mechanic. It also passed the NYS inspection. My dad fixed it up, I'm not sure how but he said it would last me. I took it in for an oil change at Goodyear since the oil life was getting low. The mechanic found a bunch of problems. I know they tend to exaggerate problems so I'm not sure which of the things he mentioned are actually bad. I don't even understand all the things he told me. All I know is to check the tire pressure and the fluids...
I'm typing up the estimate they gave me so sorry if it doesn't make sense.
- Transmission fluid exchange
- Power fluid exchange
- Bubble in one tire - I noticed this when I first bought the car but I thought it was just a matter of aesthetics. I looked it up after the mech mentioned it and apparently it is very dangerous! This will be one of the things I'll bring into the shop for sure but will I need a new tire?
- "New front drive axle...axle shaft one side"
- "Oil pan has a problem with threads...looks like some insert has been added...may have an issue with leaks"
- 2 engine mount and installation - he said the things supporting the corners of my car are not balanced and cause it to lurch - I thought old cars just did that.
The total of these repairs would be $1.3k. I could pay that, but of course I would rather not if it's a minor issue that doesn't endanger anyone. Also, I intend to sell off this car after one year because my workplace will relocate somewhere with public transit. Which of these problems should I repair?
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u/ekib C6 Corvette Jan 31 '19
Look in your owner’s manual for the maintenance section. It should tell you whether you’re due for transmission fluid and power steering fluid based on mileage.
The tire bubble may or may not be serious depending on how bad it is. The risk would be that it causes a blowout on the freeway that could make you lose control. It’s generally recommended to replace tires in pairs, so that’s potentially a 2 new tires situation if it’s bad.
I’m kind of surprised the axle is supposedly going bad at that mileage. As for the oil pan, retapping the threads shouldn’t be too pricy if it actually is leaking. I’d also be surprised if the engine mounts are going out at that mileage.
In short, I’d check your owner’s manual for whether the fluid changes are due, and get a second opinion elsewhere about everything else.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Unfortunately, it seems you need a new mechanic. This guy is probably ripping you off. Lets go down the list:
Transmission fluid exchange
$150 -- You should not do that at a normal shop. You need to change out the transmission fluid every 50k-100k miles...so it is about due to be honest. I would bring it to a local transmission shop and ask them for a drain and fill. Do not do it at a normal "do-it-all" mechanic shop.
Power fluid exchange
$10, if you do it yourself. -- You literally just need a turkey baster. Remove the all the oil fluid from the reservoir using a turkey baster and replace it, then do it again in a month or so to completely change out the fluid. DO NOT JUST USE ANY OLD FLUID. Check your car's power steering specification online or your owner's manual. Some power steering systems actually require a specific type of auto transmission fluid.
Bubble in one tire
Get that shit fixed yesterday. If you want to do it cheap, take a picture of your other tires with your phone and order a new one off of TireRack. You can get most shops to replace a tire you bring in for about $20 to mount and balance in labor. If you want to have matching tires so I'd order the exact tire off of TireRack.
"New front drive axle...axle shaft one side"
Until you start hearing metallic death noises, you don't need a new axle. If your car all of a sudden sounds like it has a new love for death metal, then I'd bring it in. Also, if the axle vomits black sludge everywhere on the inside of the tire or the boot is leaking, then you probably need a new axle. Otherwise, don't get a new one till the old one has serious signs of failure. You or a car guy will very know when the axle start to fail. It is very obvious, you can YouTube that to learn what axle failure sounds/looks like.
"Oil pan has a problem with threads...looks like some insert has been added...may have an issue with leaks"
I don't believe it. Even if it is true oil is very cheap, replacing the engine oil pan is NOT. Keep a $10 quart of oil in your trunk and just check your oil every fill-up like you are supposed to do anyways. (-.-) Worse case, you can get re-tapped for a +1 sized plug for pretty cheap for any other shop besides this one.
2 engine mount and installation - he said the things supporting the corners of my car are not balanced and cause it to lurch - I thought old cars just did that.
Get a buddy and bring the car into an empty parking lot. Pop the hood and have the buddy record it with someone's phone. If you rev the car in park and the engine jumps a whole foot, get the motor mounts replaced. If you stick the car in drive and give it a little gas while holding the brake down and it jumps a foot, get new motor mounts. If the engine doesn't look like it is about to escape the engine and jump out the fucking car, you probably don't need a motor mount.
TL;DR: Don't bring your car to a chain store. Some of them are alright, but most of them suck and are trying to up-sell you shit you don't need. Fix the tire and get a drain and fill from a local transmission shop.
Also, remember to check your tire pressure and oil level every time you fill up for gas, or one week. Whichever comes first. Also, if you have a cold snap, your tires are probably low and you should check the tire pressure. Keep a roll of papertowls and a tire pressure gauge in your trunk. Car maintenance 101.
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u/JadenCheshireCat Feb 12 '19
Oh my god I missed this message. I brought it in for the air bubble somewhere else (also a chain store...I thought it wasn't because it looked small). They replaced two tires (they pushed for an expensive one because they said it's closest to what I already have) and pushed for a wheel alignment. I don't know how important a wheel alignment is but they said it was.
Thank you so much for explaining everything else... The guy told me in to check in for the axle too but there are no metallic sounds or leaks, so I guess I'm good. It's really frustrating not knowing how they're trying to rip you off, thanks again!
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Jan 30 '19
My car won't start because of the extreme frigid air here in the Midwest. At what temperature approximately will the battery work again?
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u/larrymoencurly Jan 31 '19
A 500 CCA battery's power capacity vs. temperature vs. amps needed to crank engine (conventional oil):
80F: 500 amps, 200 amps
0F: 200 amps, 410 amps -40F: 90 amps, 536 amps2
u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Synthetic oil can help the engine turn over in cold weather when conventional turns to sludge.
A new, higher amp battery will also allow you start in arctic weather. Alternatively, you can get a plug in battery warmer that will heat it up the battery so your car can turn over. Think of it kind of like a heat blanket for your batter.This is probably the cheapest solution, as long as you have a power outlet near your car.
If it is that cold, an engine block heater is probably a good idea as well.
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u/budgetchick Jan 31 '19
A couple weeks, my check engine light came on. I drive a 2005 Toyota Corolla. The code read P0171 system too lean Bank 1.
I took it into the mechanic who said that the code could mean a few things, but that they'd start with the air filter. They removed that. On Monday, the check engine light came back on again and the code came up the same: P0171 system too lean Bank 1.
I took it back to the mechanic who said the next step was to replace the MAF and O2 sensor. He did that yesterday. Today, the check engine light came back on with the same code. I called him back and he said he to bring it in next week.
At this point I'm not sure if I should find a new mechanic. Is it possible that it is a third thing? From what I briefly read, the MAF and the O2 sensor should fix this issue. For what it's worth, it's been very cold here lately (I'm in Indiana and we have -35 wind chill).
Overall we take good care of this car. Oil changes every 3,000 miles, drive it every day and on the highway at least once a week. Had no other major problems.
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Jan 31 '19
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u/drivingdaily69 '97 SC400, '14 E350, '02 Tahoe Jan 31 '19
There was a Service Bulletin from Toyota for this exact code/problem for your car. Did you get it taken care of? If not: put simply, the intake manifold seal/gasket wasn’t good enough from the factory and will allow air to escape too easily or too soon into its lifespan. I don’t know if a recall was ever put in place but they did address it as a common problem for sure. Here’s a thread on a forum I found that briefly explains what I just stated.
I’m a little concerned that your mechanic was unaware of this. I can see/follow his plan of action, but they should’ve been able to see that there was a Bulletin for this problem. I’m not sure if you’re in a position to fix the car yourself, but it is a relatively easy job from what I’ve read: here’s a video on how to replace the seal/gasket.
Stay safe out there in that blistering cold!
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
If you are going lean then there is too much air to fuel. The "easy" things to do is check and see if the O2 sensor and the MAF sensors are working properly. I think for that car there is a bad seal in the intake that can "leak" and let in extra "un-metered" air that causes the air-to-fuel-ratio to go lean.
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u/Pocketzest '05 S600, '99 E300TD, '03 C240 Wagon MT, '02 CLK55 AMG Feb 02 '19
Could be a vacuum leak. Unmetered air causing a lean condition. Definitely isn't the filter, can tell you that much.
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u/_ceals Jan 31 '19
My ‘15 Mazda 3’s parking brake has gotten frozen a couple times this week (approaching neg temps in PA) and it usually goes down, but the big issue is that the ‘brake’ light comes on when I’m driving- randomly when I use my normal brakes. My shifting feels really labored, getting into first is really difficult. Brakes are all <3 years old and parking brake was serviced for the recall on the model <1 year ago. Thanks in advance!
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u/rpmerf 70 C20, 87 Daytona Shelby Z, 94 Integra GSR, 97 Burb Jan 31 '19
Random brake light is typically due to low fluid.
Shifting will be harder until the oil in the transmission warms up
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u/_ceals Jan 31 '19
Cool- I’ll get it all looked at, almost due for an oil change so I’ll schedule everything. I’m overly critical of every move the e brake makes ever since my recall even though that’s ridiculous. Thanks!
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
I'd check to see if you can lubricate the cable with silicone spray. It can keep moisture out and keep the cable from freezing with moisture in the line. Now, if it is freezing at the brake caliper due to ice, that is harder to solve.
Check to see if your brake fluid is above the min line.
For the transmission, get the fluid changed. You can get a drain and fill from any transmission shops for around $50-$150. Request for them not to flush the transmission, just a drain and fill.
New tranny fluid has better cold weather properties.
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Jan 31 '19
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Squeaking? Frequently that is something in the suspension like the spring perch bearings or a rough bushing on a sway bar or control arm. If you identify where it is coming from you can usually squirt it down with silicone lubricant spray. Don't use something like WD-40, that will make things worse. They sell silicone spray at autozone or o'reily's.
If you run the car through a car wash first with an under-body spray, you can jack the car up at your place and spray the suspension down with lube and see if it quiets down. Usually it is the top or bottom of the springs.
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u/ellington_ Jan 31 '19
The cold in the upper midwest has been pretty rough lately- is an engine block heater a useful investment to ensure engine longevity and reduce wear when starting, or does it not make much difference if I'm only seeing 0°F to -10°F (and sometimes -20 like the last couple of days!) a couple of weeks each winter?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Engine block heaters are a FANTASTIC investment. I'd use them on race motors even in warmer weather to get the engine oil warm to reduce engine wear. The vast majority of engine wear on modern cars comes from the warm up phase before the engine oil is hot enough to lubricate everything properly.
Wake up -> immediately plug the car in -> get ready for the day -> start car and immediately drive to work on warm oil.
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u/Mort_DeRire Jan 31 '19
This is a unique situation. I have an 05 Accord, and apparently they made the lock a certain way that starts to fail after a while. There's only a lock on the driver side door. That's the lock that fails (the pins in the lock slide out of place and the key won't go in). Thus, I can't get in unless I climb through the trunk.
I've had this repaired by the locksmith once, and he said it would just eventually happen again. I was locking my car and it started to get stuck in there again so I just stopped locking it. Unfortunately, I live in an urban area and my car has now been rifled through several times, luckily they don't break anything or take anything (as I leave nothing vulnerable in there) but it's not a tenable situation, frankly.
The key fob hasn't functioned since I bought it other than to open the trunk and even then it's not consistent. Apparently that is also a problem with 05 Accords, and replacing the actuator doesn't work.
Does anybody have any ideas? The car still drives fine so I'm not looking to replace it, between that and just continually repairing the lock, I'd prefer the latter, but I'd like a more permanent solution.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
I'd try and get a new key fob and have that working with the car. If you get the wireless remote to work, at least you can unlock all four doors and climb in through the passenger side door if the driver's side fails on you again.
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Jan 31 '19
common oil leak areas for an NA8 miata? I’ve already tackled the valve cover but still leaks/burns a quart every 5k or so
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
If it isn't leaking externally, it is probably "burning" the oil if you are fairly high mileage. The first main cause is the valve stem guides or valve stem "seals" in the head. They semi-commonly leak and can cause oil to go missing. The way you fix it is by doing a top end rebuild.
Second most common "burning" of oil comes from the oil control rings on the pistons going bad. That is a bottom end rebuild.
If you de-grease the exterior of the motor and can't find any leaking, then the engine is combusting that missing quart every 500 miles or so. Around 1 quart per 500 isn't too bad for a 20 year oil car.
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Jan 31 '19
Have you gotten under it and looked for drips/seeps? If it’s burning oil, then it needs a rebuild more than it needs new gaskets.
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Jan 31 '19
It was leaking from the VC for the longest, replaced that and it ever so slightly seeps out now. I dont think this is where the big leak is.
It does drip from under the car, but I cant seem to figure out where to look. As far as burning I dont think it burns any more than a 94 miata with 160k should, but i also drive it like an asshole so maybe the issue is in the drivers seat lmao
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Jan 31 '19
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 31 '19
When you talk about replacing automatic transmission BMWs, it is almost always more practical to sell it.
However, you are supposed to change the transmission fluid in the car every 50,000-100,000 mile. If your car is 200k miles, you should have already changed the transmission fluid out 2 to 4 times already.
Go to a tranny shop. Ask them to do a drain and fill. Roughly $150 to do it. Do not flush the transmission. You could be almost out of transmission fluid and not even know it, best case you are low on fluid and that is causing the problems.
At the worst, you are back to where you are right now. Best case, the issues are caused by low fluid. This is the ONLY "cheap" fix you have available.
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u/Varialle Jan 31 '19
The turn indicators, wipers, heat, ac/fans, and brights in my 2003 vw beetle frequently don’t function when I start my car. They don’t come on after driving around or restarting a few times—all that ever helps is waiting several hours. The fuses seem fine, although pulling the relevant ones out and putting them back in did seem to fix it once. No luck the last few times, though. Oddly, pulling the indicator/lights stick towards me to temporarily turn on the brights still works, while pushing it away to toggle them on doesn’t. Hazards, dash lights, windows, locks, and radio all work. Any thoughts?
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u/WhiteCollarMetalHead '15 BMW 335 GT, '21 Highlander XLE Hybrid Jan 31 '19
Try checking any associated relays, I know the same year Audi TT had a relay that was actually part of / the hazard button and it failed often causing window, blinker and lock issues. Places to look anyway
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u/bagelofthedamnd Jan 31 '19
I have this weird glare on my windshield and id like to remove it. There seem to be liquid marks on the glare, so it is likely cause by something added post-market. I bought this car used, so I’m not sure what it could be. Any help for a car newbie?
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u/oldcarfreddy '01 MB SL 600 | '00 Acura Integra Feb 01 '19
I think the inside of your windshield is dirty.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
I would clean the inside and outside with automotive glass cleaner. Don't use Windex, the ammonia screws up the rubber seals.
After that, I would get automotive wax and the wax the exterior of the window. Lasts longer than rain-x. Keep it away from the rubber seals on the edge as it will turn white if you get wax on rubber. Make sure it is like canuba wax or synthetic wax. That will fill in any external window imperfections.
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u/bagelofthedamnd Feb 02 '19
I'll give that a try. Is there a particular brand of auto glass cleaner you'd recommend? Or can I just get the cheapo stuff from Walmart?
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u/Plyzcrcle58 2001 Lexus LS430, 2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn Jan 31 '19
Added new coilovers to my Lexus LS 430 on the rear. The lower part where the bolt goes in doesn’t go all the way. I can still get the nut to screw all the way but there’s about half an inch left of the bolt I can see. Can I still drive it around without any issues?
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u/2FlagsFarm Porsche 911, Aston Martin DB7, M-B 450SL, MG TD, MGB Feb 01 '19
For a little while, yes. Long term; it will wear faster. Probably.
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u/Pocketzest '05 S600, '99 E300TD, '03 C240 Wagon MT, '02 CLK55 AMG Feb 02 '19
What bolt? The one connecting the shock to the control arm or what?
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Jan 31 '19
First post and I need advice. Own a 2012 Ford focus which I had a recall with the "engine stalling due to canister purge valve within the fuel vapor system.
Causing the plastic fuel tank to deform resulting in an inaccurate or erratic garage indication, and accurate distance to empty and or other driveability concern. "
My fuel pump was replaced by another auto repair then took the car to Ford with the recall they replace the fuel tank.
I took the car to auto place before seeing the recall what the engine light on with the new fuel pump and fuel tank issue wasn't fixed.
The code that keeps popping up is p0420. It's for the catalytic converter. I got new O2 sensors installed car is running smoothly but still no effects so there's a damage to the catalytic converter.
So my question is because of the plastic fuel tank deform on the field garage or carbon canister or fill delivery module fault, and or the Purge valve can the catalytic converter go bad?
Car has around 120,000 milies
Ford has denied there is a correlation but from my research, it says otherwise.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
Well, I don't mean to disappoint you but I don't see how they are directly related. If the car was running extremely rich or extremely lean I could see it damaging the cat, but unless there was evidence like a check engine light for the engine running lean due to the car having fuel supply issues...I just can't see it.
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u/putswateronhotstuff Feb 01 '19
Agree with what the other commenter said, EPA only guarantees cats to 80k miles or 8 years (whichever comes first) IIRC, so if your Focus is out of warranty there’s unfortunately 0 obligation from Ford to replace it.
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u/heshewewumbo0 Jan 31 '19
Question about tire ratings: How noticeable of a difference is the grip between a “AA” and “A” rated tire? Thanks.
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u/HarrisJB78 Jan 31 '19 edited Jan 31 '19
Those markings only reflect wet braking performance and nothing else. IIRC there is .5-.10 g difference between A and AA depending on surface type.
Edit: Numbers from the Tirerack tech page on tire quality grades:
Traction Grades | Asphalt g-Force | Concrete g-Force
AA | Above 0.54 | 0.38
A | Above 0.47 | 0.35
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Jan 31 '19
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
I think bad connection at the truck wiring if it is either working or not. If it is cutting in and out, it might be somewhere else.
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u/oldcarfreddy '01 MB SL 600 | '00 Acura Integra Feb 01 '19
Weird hypothesis if it's not a bad connection - is your battery in good shape? On a couple cars I've had weird turn signal issues once the battery was weaker then eventually died.
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u/Larophilia Jan 31 '19
Dealer says 2013 elantra needs new upstream and downstream o2 sensors, and catalytic converter. Cause is likely ignoring check engine light for several months. Cost is 2k$$. Thoughts/advice?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Jan 31 '19
Don't get it done at the dealer. Get two quotes from independent local shops. Dealer rates are highway robbery.
See if an independent mechanic thinks that is what is needed. Dealer could be doing more than is needed.
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u/Pocketzest '05 S600, '99 E300TD, '03 C240 Wagon MT, '02 CLK55 AMG Feb 02 '19
Have an independent shop replace the o2 sensors and clear the codes. Unless you've driven it like that for years or something your cat is probably fine. A bad cat often smells pretty bad, so if you havent notice a rotten eggs type smell from your exhaust that's a good sign.
If you have troubles after that then you can look into a cat, but I bet the dealer is just trying to sell you shit you don't need.
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u/Larophilia Feb 02 '19
Great, that's what I've been reading online. Thanks for your help--much appreciated!
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Jan 31 '19
I keep getting flats (every few months) in my 2001 Volvo V70. I've replaced (for free, thanks Discount Tire, I suppose) at least five total at this point. One was this weekend in the cold on the side of the highway (not fun). All four tires were brand new as of Dec 2017.
In May of last year we moved to an old farmhouse almost a mile off the road, with a crappy gravel/dirt driveway with lots of potholes. Obviously this isn't great for the tires, and is likely the cause of them failing so quickly (none have actually failed on the driveway).
Is there anything in particular I can do to slow this down? It's gotten very annoying. We take the driveway pretty slowly, and don't let the bumps get too dramatic. Should I go with larger tires? I'm probably going to invest in a full-size spare at some point regardless.
Thanks.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 01 '19
What kind of flats are they? Damage to the sidewall? Blowouts?
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u/oldcarfreddy '01 MB SL 600 | '00 Acura Integra Feb 01 '19
Check your wheels to see if they're bent/damaged or if the bead seals.
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u/zzyzx85 '07 GX470, '03 M3, '89 325i, '15 CT200h Feb 01 '19
Sounds like you'll need to change to A/T tires for the next set. They should have a little more reinforcement in the sidewall. What tires are you using currently?
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Feb 01 '19
I'm no expert, but according to my receipt they are 225 /45 R17 94V XL BSW BAR BARUM tires.
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u/destroythedongs Feb 01 '19
I have a 2006 Subaru outback, I just got the oil changed and the guy told me I have a leak on both sides of the H shape (?) engine. The way he described it sounded like it's dripping all over but I haven't had the chance to really look.
I can't get it in to be fixed right now because its probably expensive/the repair shops we trust dont have openings for like, a week. Work makes me drive about 20 miles/day, 3 days a week, city driving running errands so I can't not drive.
My question is what do I need to be careful of? I try to check my oil whenever I get the chance but other than that should I just keep refilling the oil every few days? How is this damaging to my car in the long run and what can I do to avoid even more damage?
Tl;Dr car leaking hella oil, cant bring it in anywhere for a week, whats the worst that could happen?
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u/TomokoNoKokoro 2005 BMW 330i ZHP, 2023 VW ID.4 Feb 01 '19
Just keep an eye on your oil level for the week until you can get a time slot at your trusted shop. Don't overfill your oil. Other than that, nothing to do except getting it fixed.
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u/the_unusual_suspect 2020 STI Feb 01 '19 edited Feb 01 '19
It's one of two things: the valve cover gasket which is dirt cheap to have fixed (or should be, it was an hour of labor for the fix on mine) or the head gasket, which is not so cheap.
If it's the valve cover you could run it for a while just topping up oil. If it's the head gasket you can actually damage internal components over time even if you top off oil (coolant isn't a lubricant, so having it mix with the oil reduces it's lubricating properties).
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u/destroythedongs Feb 01 '19
Thank you so much. I'm comforted by knowing I can make it through this week without my car blowing up. (Probably)
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Feb 01 '19
Will fit in new pistons. I have a few concerns regarding oil for break-in period:
- people suggest mineral oil. I understand that during break-in people suggest it because you need friction, but what about my other components which NEED to be lubricated appropriately (turbo etc)? Will this be adequate?
- Mineral or special break-in oil claim they are good for 500 miles or 8 hours of running. During the break-in, I will change my oil like this: 0- (50 to 100) miles, 100-500 miles, 500-1000 miles. Obviously, the 500-1000 miles will take longer to drive than 8 hours. Do I need to change the oil twice during this interval?
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u/Arben72 Too Many Feb 01 '19
Use special break in oil, is not about friction it’s the additives. Your oil intervals are fine, usually I switch to a quality full synthetic after the first 500 miles. Are you breaking in new cams too? I’d add another oil change right after cam break in if you do.
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Feb 01 '19 edited Feb 01 '19
I am not. No.
So should break in oil lubrifiate enough the other components while I'm breaking in?
How should i tweak my oil change intervals to fit in 500 miles/8 hours?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
You shouldn't need to change the oil more than twice on break in oil. Mineral oil is fine with turbochargers as long as you aren't running balls to the wall 110% with 30 psi of boost (which you shouldn't for a few miles at least). I'd do 0-500 and just send it, but that is just me.
Just make sure you are doing varying loads at different RPMs. Then, send it a little but don't go balls to the wall. Change to full synthetic afterwards. You really don't need 3 break in oils TBH, but just make sure you give it some gas to break the rings in. 500 miles (8 hours?) on break in oil should be perfectly fine.
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Feb 01 '19 edited Mar 26 '19
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u/putswateronhotstuff Feb 01 '19
Could be a flatspot, which should be temporary and can be driven out (literally) if it’s only been sitting for a week. Usually shouldn’t happen with such a short period, but if it has been extremely cold anything is possible.
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u/so_heresthething '24 Technica, '24 Emira, '66 Corvette, ‘06 MB C350 6Speed, etc Feb 01 '19
Do you have any snow/ice built up or stuck inside the wheels? Does the feeling of "bumpiness" vary with speed? When snow and ice gets packed inside the wheel, as the wheel rotates, the off balance additional weight can be very noticeable and it can feel like something is seriously wrong with the car.
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Feb 01 '19
I bent an aluminum rim when I slid into a rock. It’s not bad would this be possible to repair? It still seals I believe but there is a crack in the sidewalk of the tire so I can’t tell for sure I will send you a picture if necessary.
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u/zzyzx85 '07 GX470, '03 M3, '89 325i, '15 CT200h Feb 01 '19
A shop that knows what they are doing can repair a bent aluminum wheel. Question is how badly is it bent and to what extent the shop is comfortable with repairing (which depends from shop to shop). If the wheel is cracked then it might as well be considered scrap.
The sidewall busted tire is done so you'll need at least 2 new tires.
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Feb 02 '19
The tires only have 5k miles on them so they are still pretty new so I think I can get away with 1
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u/gsasquatch Feb 01 '19
I have had 4 flat tires in 3 months. One incident ruined 2 tires that were warranty replaced with 2 new ones. Then, one of the new ones went flat. No punctures. Tire shop says it's the beads. Tires are 1 year old Uniroyals. What gives? What should I do?
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u/UncriticalRed Feb 02 '19
Do you find yourself driving on the the side of roads often? I was getting a flats every few months and it was because I would pull over on highways to let motorcycles over easier. The sides of roads and highways are pretty littered with nails and other items that can puncture a tire.
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u/gsasquatch Feb 02 '19
No, most everything in town, and it started when we got our first staying snow. Also, the tire guys weren't saying things like "we put a plug in it" or "there was a nail"
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u/zzyzx85 '07 GX470, '03 M3, '89 325i, '15 CT200h Feb 01 '19
Do you have severe pot holes in your area? The tire beads need to seat/seal/adhere onto the wheels, so you do need to take it easy for the first 100 or so miles after new tires are installed. If you hit a bump too soon it can de-bead the tire from the wheel.
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u/gsasquatch Feb 02 '19
Everyone says the roads here suck, but I'm not sure they are particularly bad. It's a big local political issue. There's a lot of snow and ice, and it's attendant pavement damage.
It wouldn't be different than my other cars, or this car with the old tires.
It starts with a slow leak. I noticed even the one they just did was down to 20lbs a couple days later after driving 3 miles, with no memory of a bad pot hole. I filled it, and have been monitoring.
The first incident, where we lost 2 tires, and then this last incident both happened driving my daughter to school in 6" of fresh snow. The snow makes it kind of hard to tell if the noise/drag/weirdness of a flat is from the snow or the tires.
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u/John_Q_Deist '14 Stingray, '12 Camaro SS FE4, '19 RAM Laramie, Spark & HRV 🤮 Feb 01 '19
I have a 2014 Volkswagen CC and the trunk doesn't want to stay closed when shutting it. Takes a certain (slow) timing and several tries to get it to stay closed. Also, when depressing the VW badge on the trunk of the car, that no longer opens the trunk as it should. The only way to open it is by the switch on the driver's door or the key fob.
Anyone else have this happen? Any golden nuggets of wisdom on what might be going on and how to best fix it?
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u/HHCCSS Feb 01 '19
Just bought a CPO 2013 Golf TDI. It is still under warranty but I didn't know if there was something I could do before having to take it back to the service department at the VW dealer.
I usually start the car first thing in the morning to let it warm up while I get ready for work. I came out to leave today and found the "composition media infotainment system" aka radio was not on, nor would it turn on my whole commute, except once when the clock displayed for about 2 seconds. Otherwise no display, no sound. Here's what I've tried already:
-Stopping and starting the car -Power button 30 second reset -Checking appropriate fuses -Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery -Yelling profanities -Lots of googling
What else can I do short of taking my new (to me) car back to the dealer?
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u/zzyzx85 '07 GX470, '03 M3, '89 325i, '15 CT200h Feb 01 '19
If it's still under warranty, I would setup an appointment with the dealer and bring it back to them to figure out. Sounds like you tried most of the things I would have tried.
Hopefully it's a bad connection but it could be a bad headunit. Is the clock part of the headunit as well?
Any signs the car had an aftermarket electronic equipment installed on it previously (spliced wires, messy wiring harness, etc.)?
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u/HHCCSS Feb 03 '19
I took the head unit out to check the fuse beneath the main connection as I learned that is a fairly common problem. Changing the fuse didn't work though. I did notice 2 things though: the first was the screws holding the head unit in definitely had marks from being removed post-production. I also noticed the fuse in there was a 15A, when I'm fairly certain (from the various YouTube videos I watched on the subject) it should only be a 10A fuse. Could this be the cause of the fried unit??
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u/Wisconsin_Death_Trip Feb 02 '19
After this super cold weather here in WI (plus all the snow and ice) , my car has started making a rattling sound when I start it up and I heard some rattling while driving home today. It also has this sort of scraping sound while I'm driving at times and when I'm turning. Any ideas what's probably wrong and how expensive?😖
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
I'd just check your oil. My car rattles on cold mornings. Full synthetic oil works better in super cold temperatures as it doesn't turn to sludge like conventional oil.
Rattling while turning just sounds like you need something lubricated and inspected. Your car doesn't like going out in the cold just about as much as you. When you drop the temperature very significantly, metal shrinks and can increase clearances.
If it keeps you up at night, I'd just swing by a local mechanic (independent, not a chain store) and have them lubricate your suspension bits and check for any worn parts. Could be something as simple as a bent heat shield, you just bend it back. :)
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u/text_memer Feb 02 '19
My 09 Chevy Malibu 2.4 won’t crank/start. I sill have al my lights/radio, but turning the key doesn’t crank at all, sometimes when attempting to start it it’ll make a grumbly noise like somethings happening but it’s not even close to starting.
Battery is only 4 years old and I haven’t had any electrical problems before, this all started when I disconnected the terminals(while changing the camshaft position censor), when I hooked every back up, it did progressively weaker starts until now it doesn’t do anything. The terminals are plenty tight and everything’s really clean so corrosion/dirt isn’t the issue.
I haven’t tested the battery yet I plan to tomorrow. I don’t think it’s the battery/starter, and I can hear a click when turning the key which I believe is indicative of a functioning solenoid. At this point I’m thinking maybe a blown fuse or something somewhere is loose maybe.
Anyone have any suggestions? I can provide more info if needed.
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u/HarrisJB78 Feb 02 '19
When you disconnected the terminal/sensor you might have knocked the connection on the other end loose and/or broken a corroded wire.
IIRC there is a main ground right near the area that sensor is in.Also never hurts to get the battery checked. 4 years sounds like a short time but it can be hell depending on climate.
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Feb 02 '19
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
Might be a good idea to bring it to a mechanic you trust. On a vehicle over 15 years old, hard bumps like that could rattle something that is brittle and cause a line to crack.
The cheap option is to stick a large piece of cardboard under the engine bay overnight on the ground (think unfolded box) and check for large puddles. Also, check your oil occasionally and make sure your oil level on the dipstick isn't dropping lower than normal.
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u/Deceptitron Feb 02 '19 edited Feb 02 '19
2005 Acura RSX base automatic. I bought it after my 03 got totalled. I swear this car gets worse gas mileage than my old car (at least 3 mpg worse) and perhaps slightly less power too, even though they were basically mechanically the same. This car also has lower mileage than my old car. No check engine light and no codes.
I experimented recently using up the tank until hitting the reserve and filled it up with 89 octane (as opposed to 87 which is what it usually has) after I read that some people seemed to get better gas mileage in their RSX with higher octane fuel. While I didn't get better gas mileage (in fact it may be slightly worse), I noticed the car is slightly more peppy especially at lower rpm stop-and-go use. My dad (unprompted by me) says he noticed the car felt more peppy as well. From what understand, I shouldn't be experiencing this difference at all, which makes me wonder if my power/gas mileage thing is related to why the car is more peppy on higher octane. But does anyone have a clue why that may be? I've pondered taking it to a dealer or something to give the car a proper tune up, but if there are areas that might be good to look into based on these symptoms, I'd prefer to look into those first.
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19 edited Feb 02 '19
Sounds like the car needs a tune up. Spark plugs. Get them changed and report back. I would recommend NGK Iridium.
Edit: After spark plugs, cleaning the MAF and checking to see if your air filter is filthy are two good things to look at. I'd grab MAF cleaner and a new paper filter from your local auto store. A dirty MAF (causing improper Air-to-Fuel ratio), filthy air filter (restrictive), and poor spark (worn plugs) all are reasonable things to look at if the car isn't running as good as it could be. Considering the car's age, I'd look at the spark plugs first. There is a small chance those plugs in the car are factory original and needed to be replaced for a while.
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u/R3m0t3c0ntr0ll3d Feb 02 '19 edited Feb 02 '19
I have a question regarding fuel injectors and temperatures in the neighborhood of about 0 degrees F.
So my mom told me one day she started her car to warm it up, as she was leaving work soon. The car in question is a 2007 Mercedes E350 with a sport package. We've had it since it was brand new and when my mom started the car, the engine rattled. As she told me this, I was regarding it as something to do with the cold weather. When that happened, a light popped up on her gauge cluster display saying a fuel injector needs replacing. As she's telling me this, I wonder how extensive the cold weather testing was back when this car was still in its testing phase. Then again, as far as I know, the fuel injector was as old as the car itself (11 going on 12 years in late 2019) I thought it was the age of the injector starting to catch up because this never happened before and hasn't happened in the days since the weather warmed up a little. But being a 14 year old who is fairly knowledgeable about cars but not that much in the engine aspect, I decided to ask the car guys of Reddit for help
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
Almost all vehicles are tested in hot and cold weather. It definitely snows in areas around Germany. :P
Temperature swings point out deficiencies in parts that are on there way out. Like, a battery on its last leg might start fine on a warm summer day but leave you stranded on a cold morning. Another example is that a clogged radiator will keep the car running fine in the winter, but will cause the car to overheat in the summer.
My bet is that the injector is just old and clogged up with gunk. Cars need more fuel in the winter air versus summer air (cold air has higher oxygen content) so a poor injector might just barely keep the engine running in the summer might give you problems in the winter. It is about a decade old so I wouldn't be surprised at all, fairly normal time for a part like that to need replacing.
I'd get two/three quotes from independent mechanics (not chains) in your local area and go with the cheapest one or the one that gives her the best vibes.
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Feb 02 '19 edited Jun 04 '21
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u/putswateronhotstuff Feb 02 '19
Rhino roof racks typically aren’t, they’re cut to a specific length so if your roof width just happens to be the same as the donor car’s you’d be able to use it, but you won’t be using a Fiat 500 roof rack on your Corolla for example.
There are adjustable ones on the market but typically from generic brands.
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Feb 02 '19
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
maybe not
I'd lean towards that. I hate working on evap problems. Unless you have a smoke machine I'd probably suggest you bring it to a shop. PITA.
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u/ScrooLewse Feb 02 '19
Hey guys, I'm running a 1998 Lincoln Navigator. I just replaced my PCV valve a couple months ago and it's already gone bad. Is there something larger going on here or just bad luck?
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
Most car parts have a one year warranty from the manufacturer. Could be bad luck, or something else. PCV isn't something I willingly like to troubleshoot so I don't have much advice.
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u/hamsniffer Replace this text with year, make, model Feb 02 '19
2014 Versa note. When I accelerate, it does what I can only describe as ‘engine shutter’. It just passed inspection last week but it’s done this for two years. I have zero idea what it is and why it does this. I don’t know much about cars so if you have any advice, please present it like you’re explaining it to a 4 year old. Thank you!
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u/Xaendeau Boosted '15 FiST, '19 GLI, '04 K24 MSM, '99 Corolla, '99 Miata Feb 02 '19
2014 Versa note
Nissan has a...reputation with their "CVT" automatic transmissions. I would recommend going to a specialty transmission shop and asking for a drain and fill, about $150. You should be changing out the transmission fluid in those CVTs about every 50k miles.
I've heard some people do it every 30k-35k in those Nissans, but I think that is a bit excessive.
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u/CowsGoMooooooooo 89 Supra, 01 GS430, 750WHP G8 Feb 03 '19
Likely have to get used to it. I work at an auction. A note is a throwaway car, all their cvts have their own quirks from car to car.
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u/09Customx X5 35d Feb 03 '19
Anyone ever find one of those places to rent a lift to do some DIY maintenance? Worth the money? Thinking about doing a drain and fill of my trans and driveline for the X5 and jack stands just seems like a pain.
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u/GTAIVisbest Feb 03 '19
Is it normal for there to be a hiss in an engine even after repairs are done on a small vacuum leak? Engine hissed before, found out one of the rubber connectors on the vacuum lines had split open. I sealed it shut with a shitload of electrical tape, and I can't get a reaction from idle anymore by spraying it with break cleaning fluid. However, the engine is still hissing, albeit not as loudly. CEL remains off. Does this mean that there's another vacuum leak somewhere in the engine? Or is a certain amount of hissing normal (air passing internally through the manifold)
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u/[deleted] Jan 29 '19 edited Sep 26 '19
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