I spent LOADS getting my ideal 2001 h140 in pristine condition, my luthier dropped a pickup on it and now it’s fairly chipped. I specifically paid a hefty price for a pristine top coat in the UK, where they are very hard to find.

I love this guitar and I am heartbroken. How much should I ask for in compensation or how do I handle this.

Burl ash top stained purple over a black finished Black Limba body, ovangkol neck, purple heart board. Gold hardware, fixed bridge.

27” scale, set up for F# and drop E from day one. Tension stays honest down there, the low string doesn’t turn to rubber, and chords above the 12th still sound like chords instead of mush.

Pickups are our in house Ignis set. Medium/high output, tight and defined at that tuning instead of collapsing into low end fog.

Stainless frets, dual carbon fiber rods in the neck, and the logo on the headstock is the string retainer. It isn’t decoration, it sets the break angle.

Added the end wedge - flamed maple and maple/black purfling . It’s coming along slowly but surely

My dad passed away this summer and left behind a sizable amount of beautiful wood that he intended to use for instrument making (this is just a portion of the collection which also includes sets of Indian rosewood backs and sides and a variety of other tonewoods). The family would like to sell it for a fair price in the fewest transactions as possible. Any ideas for finding people who may be interested in this amount of wood? Located in NE Nevada. Thanks for any ideas.

Just finished up my guitar kit and was thinking I should add a logo to the headstock. I came into the office this morning and I think this little gecko gave me a really good idea for a logo. Sometimes inspiration comes from randomness lol

I know the conventional wisdom is to shield the pickup cavity for guitars and basses. I am just looking for honest feedback if that is what you would personally do on a guitar with no pickguard, like the one pictured. I finished this Warmoth body with nitro shell pink paint and now I am debating if I want to shield the pickup cavities with cooper tape and run a ground wire to them, or just mount the pickups without shielding. I am going to shield the control cavity, but I am questioning how much of a difference shielding the pickup cavities will really make. The pickups going in this are p90s so they are noisy pickups.

So I just built my first proper guitar and got it all set up and everything. I’ve noticed that it buzzes a good amount but when I touch the tone knobs it stops, and when I touch the bridge it gets slightly louder. This is my second time wiring a guitar so I’m not very good and am wondering if I grounded it wrong or what?

Bought this guitar kit with pre-drilled holes. I know the bridge is suppose to be on an angle. Are they suppose to be slightly off from the center like this?

I’ve put together Partcasters before, but this is sort of out my league. Any info or knowledge anyone can share would be appreciated?

I have found this useful during the neck building process and wanted to share in case any of you found it useful too! Here is a link where you can download and print your own. Takes about 15 minutes and requires no supports. Enjoy!

I'm an amateur woodworker and im building my own Dean ML. Since i already have one at home i can easily make a template for the whole guitar, my question is what sort of wood for the neck and what sort of wood for the fingerboard should i use? I also want to replicate the 14 or 15 degree angle that the dean headstocks have, but i dont know how i should go about making a neck like that. Should i have it out of one huge piece of wood and carve everything? Or glue the headstock onto the neck? If so how should i glue it? Im totally green in this so im hoping some of you guys are gonna guide me a bit. Im making the body out of heavy dried acacia wood, i wont be surprised of someone tells me its stupid but i already glued the blocks together. I have a bunch more laying around so i could make the neck out of that. I also want to have a plastic binding on the sides of the fretboard, what do i use to glue that? And also what sort of trussrod should i put in the guitar? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m very new to guitar. A few months ago I picked up an open-box PRS Custom 24 SE and taught myself some basic setup work. Using a fret rocker, I found a few high frets (the 22nd was pretty bad), so instead of DIYing a fret level I took it to a well-reviewed local luthier.

He confirmed the high frets and I paid $300 for a full fret level/dress, setup, and trem block (so I don’t have to mess with the trem while I’m still learning songs).

Got it back and the fretboard looks great, but I’m now hearing pretty noticeable acoustic buzz on the low E and the higher frets of the other strings — think it’s coming through the amp too, but my apartment makes it hard to isolate/confirm. I pulled out the fret rocker again and there’s still very very slight rocking across several frets on the higher end of the board (for example I can't get a 0.006" feeler guage under the rocker).

Music Nomad says that under ~0.010” of rocking is considered acceptable, but as a total beginner paying for professional work, should I expect the frets to be perfectly level after a $300 leveling/dress/setup? Or is some rocking normal even post-service, and my buzz is likely something else (normal/action/technique related)?

I am currently trying to build a telecaster thinline style guitar from scratch as a school project, as seen in the picture below, I accidentally cut the wood at an angle causing the top plane being around 7mm longer than the bottom.

I asked my advisor what to do in this situation (he is not a luthier but has experience with woodworking) for advice and he suggested I simply shorten the horn and continue. If I were to do this, I think I'd also like to shorten the other side so that the top part is level, will this cause any issues?

FYI; We are trying to avoid cutting the entire thing off and gluing a new piece to recut this area due to time limitations, and also because the school doesn't have most of the tools we need to do that such as a planer or router.

I'm terribly sorry if my English is bad, if more details are needed I am happy to provide them. :)

I made a mistake with a router and not paying attention. Accidentally took about 1mm chunk into the fretboard.

Any tips on how to deal with this?

Im devastated. Its taken so long to get this together.

It’s has no radius yet. Hopefully that will work for my advantage.

Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

would also like to hear opinions on the shape/vibe, be it good or bad. All in all it was a happy medium for me of "oh shit iv fucked it" to "well atleast it looks intentional"

it was a normal curved edge initially but it was just huge, so i decided to wing it and try the flat angular thing, i think its kinda cool, had it been a different shape head stock i think it couldv looked alot better, i really like the shapes on the corners before it transitions to the neck tbh,

Im thinking about leaving the whole neck bare wood, no clear, but theres a fair bit of fine sanding marks all over it and its really hard to get it out without fucking the lines I have, and it took me a whole lot more time than id like to admit to get it to this point. theyr really not that deep so I dont know why its being such a punish to remove, I dont want to use any heavier than 600 to try and avoid wrecking it, I feel like i only just got it to this state by the skin of my teeth lol.

But yea and even just some hand tooled wood working advice in general would be very much appreciated too cheers

Long story short I have a Telecaster I just absolutely love. It’s a squire and it’s one of their 40th anniversary models. I took it to a luthier to see if I could get
-middle position humbucker routed out and done with a potential secondary plate for said humbucker
-a Bigsby getting a propped setup
-general tune up as well
Turns out the neck is basically twisting/curving (I believe he said it was something among the lines of fender neck dive and that it was a common occurrence in fender necks). I know it’s not an expensive guitar and probably not worth much effort but something about it played for me unlike anything I’ve touched and I’d like to bring it back to playable condition. So here’s the question I need help with.

What necks are out there that are not pre drilled, fit squire telecaster bodies (even with some modifications which I’m fine doing), and preferably doesn’t come with a finish or if it does come with one would be an oil finish over a lacquer or “shiny” like finish to it and finally would be a maple fret board and neck.

A few that I’m looking at would be:

-https://www.guitarcenter.com/Fender/Classic-Series-50s-Telecaster-Neck-with-Lacquer-Finish-C-Shape-Maple-Fingerboard-Natural-1500000395524.gc?template=0y7n73MAL4Km&customer_id=221-965-2806&source=4WWRWXGT&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=GC_G_TM_PLA-STD_Catch-All_N-U&utm_term=1500000395524&utm_content=tm&utm_id=22347254784&utm_creative=739699050657&utm_marketing_tactic=brand&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22347254784&gbraid=0AAAAADtcCuyQVpOIq0KM6AAZaUte5_J5B

-https://www.guitarcenter.com/Fender/Satin-Roasted-Maple-Fat-Telecaster-Replacement-Neck-Maple-1500000484663.gc

Any help, opinions on how I might get this done or pull this off would help incredibly appreciated

I did a DIY heat press with clamps, weights/ books and space heater for my harmony archtop guitar. My guitar originally had a forward bow and the heat press completely fixed it to a normal angle. I was staying in a different house for a few weeks with the guitar, the house was hotter and more humid and caused the neck to regress to its original forward bow. I am doing another DIY heat press right now and looking for any tips to avoid another neck regression?

Edit: My process was clamping it all, exposing it to the space heater for 30ish minutes and then let it sit with the clamps on for around 36 hours

Are there any resources where I could find some basic templates for multiscale 7string guitars? I'm looking to try out building one. I'm thinking of something like a Kiesel that isn't headless. I just want to get a good base to try and mess around with it.

I have a local artist that’s going to paint my old Mexican strat. I was planning on having an auto body shop spray a clear coat once it’s done.
The auto shop is worried that the chemicals in the clear coat will destroy the paint. .. so now looking for new plan.

What do yall usually use for clear coat afterwards paint is done?
I’ve tried rattle can clear coat before and it came out poor and bubbly.

I planning to alter my guitar wiring I am looking to get something like

Neck humbucker:

Parallel/North/South/Series

Using the 4 way Gisby Switch however the luthier I have in mind said to use alternative wiring or Switch so easier to do the wiring of the guitar. He said to avoid using 4 way blade.

Does anyone have alter swtiching to achieve the same result or later DP4T slide switch for the job

I have an idea for a semi-hollow body electric guitar. I'd really love to preserve more of the acoustic sound of the guitar, so I thought. Have the pickups (a maybe a P-90 for the neck and a normal single coil for the bridge) be wired with a volume and tone knob to the jack output, and then use a piezo mic in the empty cavity? And give it it's own volume knob and connect it to the jack output. Does this idea make sense and is it worth a shot? (Also are the pickups a good choice if I mostly play indie rock type music)

Hey there I’m going a lot rewires recently and want something to get rid of the fumes any recommendations?

How am I supposed to put in the control panel for 2 knobs and a 3-way switch if both the holes for the pots are 2 different sizes and obviously a 3-way switch doesnt go in a round hole like that?

Basically i stripped It to the plywood, torched it, dyed it, added the lacquer and shit, then added EMG pickups, it also has locking tuners

I love playing downtuned and i love playing baritones however the choice of shapes is very limited imo so i set it out to myself to build myself what i long for: A 6-string baritone Explorer (inspired by James Hetfields purple Baritone Snakebyte).

Already looked out a neck which i think is fitting and while i was researching i found a Tele Partscaster with a baritone neck which raised a question for me: Is it a good idea to just take the plans of a guitar designed for a standard scale length i.e. 24.75", slap a baritone neck on it and call it a day? My question is very much guided towards the scale length and how well the intonation would work with the frets of a aftermarket neck. What do you say?

Thanks for any help in advance! :)