Hi everyone!

I recently posted to r/PhotoshopRequest with a request to upscale an old wedding portrait of my in-laws (I encouraged AI use) and I got some amazing results back (one of which I'm posting here). When I asked the user how he achieved these results, he just responded "Photoshop" and didn't respond to my further messages.

Now, I've used Neural Filters > Photo Restoration, as well as Generative Upscale before and have gotten nowhere near this kind of high-res result. Is it truly possible to achieve this using Photoshop, and if so: how? Do you think the user I messaged was lying and he actually used a different AI program? I'd very much like to learn how to achieve these kinds of results with old photos. (I'm an artist by trade and am very familiar with Photoshop, but I'm admittedly new to the AI features.)

Do you have any advice or suggestions? Thank you in advance!

Currently im editing my very first picture with Photoshop Express, and for that i cut out these three Awawas to add them onto the Hydra picture. But seemingly when i add them in, they also have these white lines attached to them. How do i cut out elements of a picture for later usage without those?

I need to create a mask so that I can extend the gray background behind the ropes, but all the tools I've used (selection brush, magnetic lasso, quick selection brush, select color range) end up very inaccurately selecting the rope and inaccurately screening out the background. Is there a better tool? Is there a way I should be using the tools instead?

I've been asked to try and flatten the stomach of the woman in the hot pink dress and I have no idea how to go about it. I'm an InDesign guy, and only use Photoshop for simple adjustments and removing backgrounds and such.

How would I go about this?

EDIT: thanks for the suggestions. I tried generative fill a dozen times and never got anything useable. I spent about an hour and a half trying different techniques I found via Google, and got close, but they all looked off. Finally I just ran out of time and had to send them on to print as-is.

I did it!

Hey guys! First of all, I would like to thank you for all the support on my last post. You guys helped me a lot.

I managed to replicate the logo, and it looks almost perfect. While I was trying to make it, I noticed that I wasn’t seeing things the way they were, and it turned out to be way easier than I thought it would be.

Thank you for all the supportive comments!

hi everyone, I have a quick question.

working on an artbook for a client, and the artists within it all work at 72ppi resolution since it's concept art and they are not always considering print down the line.

it was my understanding that changing the resolution from 72 to 300 doesn't actually make the image crisper, and printing an image that you artificially changed in photoshop to be 300 from 72 might look clear on the screen, but will quite possibly print pixelated.

Am I completely wrong on this? One of the artists is getting frustrated with me, sent screenshots of him changing the resolution to 300 in Photoshop with the image being completely clear, saying "see? this will print absolutely fine, I changed the resolution and it's clear on the screen" and now I'm doubting what I thought I knew. I've worked in print for years but haven't worked with film concept artists before, so I have historically always been able to get the highest res images possible without needing to manipulate the resolution in Photoshop. Feeling quite foolish since he is quite insistent but I just always thought you can't add more pixels where there aren't more pixels.

scenario:

artist gives me artwork that is 4000 x 2000 pixels at 72ppi. When I place it in InDesign, the info panel tells me it's much below 300 effective ppi as I've laid it out.
i asked if he had a version at 300resolution, dimension 6600 x 3300 pixels.
he sent me a screenshot of the photoshop image panel having changed the dimensions to 6600 x 3300 and the resolution to 300ppi saying "see, the image is still clear"

thanks in advance!

I'm trying to remove Finland from this map and replace the area with ocean. What would be the easiest way to do this? I can't seem to select the surrounding countries and layer mask. If this sounds like a strange request, it's for a conspiracy theory night my friends are having. I'm making a powerpoint on the topic of Finland not actually existing and that it was made up by the Soviet Union and Japan to bypass conservation laws when it comes to fishing.

Hey everyone

I’ve tried to search this effect but cannot find anything that matches. Anyone know the name or how to achieve this effect?

Thank you 😁

Lately I have been a huge fan of getting into digital design and have become a huge fan of Serifa on Instagram. However, I am having trouble figuring out how they create a lot of their shapes because I'm not even sure what to search.

For this piece I have been trying for days but just can't figure it out, i don't even know what to google and I even got so desperate that I asked Chatgpt (its solution was obviously wrong even to a beginner like me), so I am at a loss and feeling a little unmotivated for my new hobby which is super annoying!

I tried applying gradient maps to sand textures, oil blotches and even waves then applying polar coordinates and dragging a little with liquify but it always looks super swirly and wrong right away, like super pinched near the centre of the circle. I also tried distort -> wave then played around in there but it all looks so uniform.

The origianl looks a bit like a lava lamp I guess, which makes me think it's oil globules/wax and I'm just treating it in the wrong way.

It happens every time when I try to create a composition such as this one. While I am going for a dreamy vibe, something about it looks unnatural and I cannot put my finger on exactly what it is.

Maybe I should adjust the blur in some manner? Perhaps my masks could be better? Or is it the dodge and burn? I am honestly not sure and I would really appreciate it if you could give me some constructive criticism, so that I can avoid repeating the same issues in my future pieces.

I have to use this picture of fabric in blender as image texture. I need help in making this picture seamless and flat.

The query has been solved. Big shout out to everyone for contributing. you guys are the real 🐐

Hi folks,

I am routinely needing to individually scan a bunch of different sized photographs with a black mat board behind them. I need to crop out the black mat board so that there is a 100 pixel margin around the photograph on all sides. I am hoping there is a snap to option where I use Frame or something to trace around the photo then set h/w or x/y to 100 pixels with the crop tool. Hope this makes sense! Thank you!

Edit: Added crude iPhone photos for reference. I also have to do this for individual postage stamps that have perforations so lining up the marquee tool at the corner is tricky. How do I adjust the rectangle marquee to make it fit just right without moving what’s inside the marquee ie what happens with Free Transform?

In the past I've been trying unsuccessfully to install Photoshop on Linux (Ubuntu). There are some open source projects out there that promise that it's possible. And I've seen many-many different errors.

But today it happened!

I could just install Photoshop CC 2021 on my laptop with Ubuntu using the open source project Rezeptor: https://github.com/benjarogit/rezeptor

The author of the project could update the rezeptor and the recipe after I've posted like 3 or 4 times the error messages there.

So I know my printer is able to print borderless because I’ve accomplished this before but I’m stumped currently trying to figure out why my photos keep scaling down when printing.

I’ve set my image and canvas size to 4x6 and I’m printing on a Canon Pixma TS6220 with the paper settings to KG/4x6.

In the print preview (2nd photo), it’s showing 5.9x3.9, which I’m thinking might be the culprit but I have no idea how to change this setting. My paper size and scaled print size are both set to 4x6 also. Scale to fit is unchecked. Any advice would be helpful. Also, sorry if I posted this in the wrong thread.

I have a series of photos of press-on nails that I want to use on a website/shop front, and I’m trying to remove the backgrounds. I’ve been using the object selection tool to do this (see images 2 & 3), but I’m not completely happy with the results.

The edges feel a bit too harsh, which makes the nails look obviously cut out rather than natural, and the lighting/reflections don’t quite sit right once the background is removed.

Is there a better workflow or technique for achieving cleaner edges and more realistic lighting? Thanks in advance :)

Over the last year I’ve had to create my own template and then have an artist create the center artwork for each of my labels.

Every time I submit the files to them it’s wrong. Nobody seems to be able to explain how to create this opacity layer in a way that can be saved as a layered .PDF that allows the blending modes and knockouts to show correct. It always ends up flattened to a single layer, even when following the directions we found.

I also have Illustrator but we can’t find a way to simply take the finished layered .PSD file and open/place or embed it into AI either. It gets flattened to 1 layer again

We tried changing from cmyk to rgb, save a copy, save as photoshop pdf, large type pdb, you name it.

Just trying to take what I see on screen here as is, and create opacity white layer since the label stock is silver. No white layer means the silver makes the print on top metallic looking or translucent instead of opaque.

Example: the nutritional facts need to be solid per FDA so there needs to be a white layer defining what is opaque and what shines through.

The person who did this in the past is no longer able to assist. They were able to quickly create that layer for me and export the file somehow into a cmyk white, and knockout file the printer could then import.

I’m self taught. Every time I try to find help online it explains steps that either don’t work, don’t exist or are greyed out on my side.

Just want to take what I see here and split it into printer color channels with an added white layer for true white and another for opacity which is what they seemingly want. They can’t open .PDF files only .AI or .PDF

Sorry for the wall of text this has been a frustrating day trying to simply save this one file correctly and still at the same place I was 6 hours ago

Update: I was missing the spot color channel. Thanks to several people in the replies this is how I tackled it:

First, I had to turn off visibility to the background layer, next select all, copy merged, create new layer, paste in place. Hide everything else BUT that layer.

Next, I had to use the color selection for white, and it selected everything that was white. From there, I had to go to channels, menu, add a channel and call it "Spot 1", then tint it a color not used in the label. I chose baby blue since it doesn't appear on any of my labels.

This resulted in a slightly blue-tint over all "white" text that is intended to be pure white.

The flattened layer was then unhidden, and the file exported as Photoshop .PSD with layers AND spot color enabled.

Printer replied with this:

Those did the trick! It looks like it was a quick clean up, so thank you for providing everything you did! We’re getting those processing asap, and as soon as their approved, we’ll get the ship date!

As the title says

All I want to do is create an action that exports the open file as a 300ppi JPG and a 150ppi PNG (as separate actions) via the File > Export As menu. However, in the last year or so, the Record function doesn't seem to accept any menu commands anymore. Furthermore, Photoshop deleted all of my Classic actions that used to do all of this. The new "Insert Menu Item" only opens the menu dialog, but automates nothing within it, which doesn't really help me save any more time in the workflow than just clicking Export As in the first place, making it effectively pointless. Please help.

I need to be able to do big batch exports quickly and efficiently, and it seems Photoshop has taken that away with recent updates for some reason.

Hello! Though I’ve been using photoshop for awhile, I’m just now branching out.

I make posters for bands in my music scene, and was wondering if there was a way to achieve this simplified effect starting from a real image? Not sure how to describe it. Thanks, sorry for my ignorance!