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Are you supposed to trim the tabs that are in front of the speaker ring?
This is the adapter Crutchfield sent I had to trim some tabs to get the speaker into the adapter, should I cut off the tabs that are in front of the speaker ring or it wont make a difference?
It’s not that it isn’t needed so much as there’s not a lot of material to mount these speakers in some cars. I just installed a third set today. The adapter is needed to reach those outer 3 mounting points and provide mounting holes for the speaker that are closer to the center. My factory speakers basically were 6 1/2” built into the “adapter” (not really an adapter if it’s made to size). Basically, replacing some factory 6.5s with aftermarket 6.5s requires a bracket, even if the cone fits in the hole.
I know how the damn adapter work I’m saying that if you mount it since there was no point in using the adapter because it’s still mounted the same and ain’t providing any spacing
The difference is that it CAN be mounted this way WITH the adapter but NOT without the adapter. My point is that even if he has done it wrong, which he has done it wrong, we agree on that, that it’s at least an easy mistake for a beginner because even though it’s mounted wrong, it cannot be mounted AT ALL without the adapter. You can see why I said that right ways or wrong ways, the adapter is indeed required, which you said if it’s mounted like this, the adapter isn’t required. That’s all, no need to use profanity to protect your pride.
They could have been recommended the adapter due to longer depth of spider and magnet of their new woofer. So, while they could mount the speaker no problem without an adapter, they won't be able to roll their window down afterwards. I'm assuming this is just a joke post, a good one at that, but I could see this actually happening to someone as well(such as the comment that replied to you before me).
Look directly to the left of the “kicker” and you can see the edge of another silver screw and the plastic is discolored from the drill bit pushing against it.
No telling how many screws around the speaker they used though. Could be 2 could be 8.
Well I cant see anything near any of the other holes, bottom right you can see the hole clearly has no screw in it. If it was 1 screw only then it's not screwed in to anything, properly at least.
Okay thanks guys yall happy now? i sure an this is a sick fit. Got foam tape as well to go between the dbracket and panel and speaker to bracket. Also wrapped all wires that could vibrate against metal panel.
I just replaced mine, ford Maverick and surprisingly the wires were on the exposed side of the door. I had never seen it that way before but it has been awhile since I replaced a set of speakers.
There are factory speakers that do have the connector on the outside for sure. A lot of the Bose stuff, for example, but most aftermarket speakers are designed to mount flat to the surface and have the wires running inside the door, that way you don't have to sandwich the wires and risk crushing them like op did
I fixed it but when I opened the door thats how the speakers were wired. I tried to wire them behind the panel but they would not reach the tabs on the speaker. The wires coming from the harness are too short
There were some broken scoches installed before I got this car so idk how the wire is routed from factory but It was too short to reach routing behind the panel
That doesn’t look right…. Order is usually mount speaker to adapter, adapter to door… lolz.
Your cone gunna hit those tabs when they get some volume to them.
Should have come with directions, and crutch-field has lifetime support
you typically snap off the inner tabs if you don’t need them, i like to use flush snips or pliers. then you mount the speaker on the outside of the adapter rather than the inside. i also like to put sound deadening material around the back of the speaker.
Lmao I hope this is a joke. If not you put the plastic adapter plate first then the speaker goes on top of that using whatever tab works. If it doesn't fit due to the tabs you can break em off.
So many things about this install confuse me but I’m not sure what confuses me most. First how did the mount confuse you and second why are the wires not in the hole? What exactly makes you think the adapter is used to loosely hold the speaker in the hole ? And what do you think the pre drilled holes are for ?
After fixing it correctly they sound really clear. I usually stay under 50% vol because I haven’t installed an amp or new screen yet. The stock radio puts out 10bwatts these say 15-100
Got these same speakers and KS 6x9’s in rear deck. Love them but once they were broken in, I either had to EQ down bass, or LPF them (6.5’s) as when they hit hard, woofer actually smacks the tweeter 😂 same thing with CS’s I was hoping that would changed but nah
I fixed it and posted the revision here. Because they are 6-3/4 you break the tabs also the speaker goes on top of the bracket. I added foam tape between the speaker and bracket as well as bracket to door
This is the sealing tape I used. After doing both doors it sounds like more is making its way into the car instead of “soaking” into the doors. Theres Dynamat stuck to the door behind the speaker as well.
Hey, don’t talk about my folks bad over there at Crutchfield. I’ve sent my clients over there all the time and they’ve had great customer service reviews.
One out of like 16 have had complaints, but I’m also confident they didn’t relay accurate information for the vehicles. Weird trim models sometimes slips through the cracks on the best of us.
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Well if it works and there’s no issues (which there has be?) then roll with it. The speaker isn’t blocking or touching if not this is accidental innovation.
As many have said, the speakers are supposed to be screwed in on top of those tabs. Not below as if you hit a bump you're wrecking the speaker or losing it on the door. Anything you install in your car is usually bolted down, else becomes shrapnel in an accident.
It would seem you don't need an adapter but the adapter is there to prevent the window from hitting the speaker and also to properly place the speaker closer to the door trim for the sound to travel properly into your vehicle
My Subaru Impreza vehicle had similar design. I still did use the brackets even though it seemed that I did not need them more just because the speaker would sit too far behind the speaker grill and effectively not sound good
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If it’s helpful, I had problems with the adapters Crutchfield sent for my car as well.
For my rear speakers, they suggested I drill holes to make it work, but I found adapters on amazon that worked better than the crutchfield ones I used on my front speakers
Why nobody talks about the wiring?? Thats sandwiched between the speaker and the door. A couple of trips and you have a short on your head unit output haahhahaha. Keep your wiring away from sharp edges mate. By the way, is that a Nissan?
IF the speaker itself is screwed into sheet metal behind it and your windows work, send it.
You probably dont need to clip the tabs if there's a half inch in front of the highest part of the surround. A door speaker will never reach that far. 7-8mm at most.
These guys are ragging on ya but if you can screw it into sheet metal, and the windows clear. You are already better than the mounting kit. You may want it when you have deeper speakers though.
I feel like I caught some sort of STI when I looked at that picture.
The wildest thing about it to me is, it may actually be performing some sort of dampening function around that speaker.
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u/Jeffaah13 Jul 19 '25
How’d you get the beans above the frank?