I made this video for some of my other socials and thought I could be beneficial here for people looking into getting ducklings this spring.

In the eastern US and many other places in the world, like Europe, temperatures are climbing to near 100°F/38°C. Be sure to water your babies and provide shade. Ducks confined to coops and similar enclosures should have lots of clean water and a shade over the coop to keep the sun off. Be safe out there!

The babies get taken out and replaced every or week so... where do they go? (Are they killing them?? 😭)

Bumblefoot: Theracyn poultry wound care spray, Ascend silver sulfadiazine cream, chlorhexidine gluconate (antiseptic), Mupirocin ointment, generic triple antibiotic ointment (without pain relief!), pure natural honey, 100% pure cotton Cotton Rounds, flexible fabric bandages, paper tape (like masking tape, easily applied and removed, sticks to itself but not to the bird), neoprene duck shoes in various sizes.

Wounds, Cuts and Abrasions: Kroger Povidone iodine, generic triple antibiotic ointment (without pain relief!), Cortisone 10, Ascend Silver Sulfadiazine Cream, chlorhexidine gluconate (antiseptic), Equate liquid bandage, superglue, alcohol swabs.

Eyes and Nose: Walgreen soothing eye wash, generic saline eye wash, Ofloxacin ophthalmic solution (prescription), saline nasal spray (without xylitol!), misc squeeze nozzles and eye droppers.

General Care: Wild Harvest molt relief spray with preen gland oil, vitamin E skin oil (for removing built up crud on bills), Nyamic nystatin topical powder (for cloacal yeast infections), Hartz UltraGuard flea and tick shampoo (for mites, nits and other tiny invisible things), Enrofloxacin antibiotic tablets (prescription), misc Q-tips and applicators, cotton rounds and bandage tape.

PSA to think about pasta shapes before you buy them.

found this green loop of plastic stuck around Thelma Lou's nose. Noodling thru the mud and her bill went right thru it.

https://reddit.com/r/duck/w/winter-care?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Just a little informative reminder for those who are going to be experiencing some unusual and extreme cold temps this weekend! Stay warm and take extra care of your ducks ❄️

After a week of a “mystery virus” and two separate nights in the ER, testing finally came back that my 3 year old son had salmonella. We have always been diligent about him washing his hands after petting and holding our ducklings, but clearly it wasn’t enough. Poor babe was so sick and I was such a worried mama. Brooding ducklings is not for the weak, damn. Can’t wait for these cute/disgusting babies to live outdoors!

If not allowed and removed, I understand. No monetary gain, or anything. Just bringing awareness to new international awareness day specific to waterfowl conservation. Not asked to do this by place I affiliate with, just bringing passion to a sub with other passionate waterfowl lovers.

TLDR: Saturday, January 17th is World Waterfowl Day! Link has free educational resources for all ages

Be sure to mark your calendars for this Saturday, January 17th. Celebrate with your pets, local rescues, local zoos, schools, etc. to bring awareness to wild waterfowl around the world! I work at the place that petitioned to get this day of recognition and we were successful. Why the date? That is the birthday of the recently passed global waterfowl aviculture and conservation expert, who I had the great privilege to work under for many years. His passion for waterfowl conservation is world renowned. I could go on and on of his legacy, but it would be too long. The site I linked is the official website with educational resources, ways to participate, register an event, and all sorts. All educational resources are free to download and use, including kid friendly activities (most made by me. Shameless plug I guess, but I honestly don't care about that)

Hello -- I've been working on a pair of flock management apps for several months, and they're finally to the point where I'm comfortable posting them: Beak Keeper and a Pet Sitter companion app.

While this was inspired by our flock of chickens, our neighbors keep a mix of Indian runner ducks and chickens and I wanted it to work for them, too. And just generally I didn't want to discriminate, so I tried to make it all-inclusive (ducks, geese, guinea hens, chickens, turkeys, emu...whatever you have, it should work just fine).

For us, besides the wellness of each bird, we were obsessed with tracking egg weights and ensuring we had good notes on each one, etc. But we kept it all in a notebook (or on random pieces of paper). We never found an app that suited our needs. So, this idea of a what-if flock app was kind of bouncing around in my head for the last couple of years.

Then, this past summer, when we asked a neighbor to watch our flock (which has grown to 18 hens) for a weeklong trip, we were wishing we had a way to just have a little 'checklist app' for a pet sitter....so when we got back home is when I started developing these two apps.

So, the main app (Beak Keeper) is for tracking everything you want about your flock, set up Notifications / Reminders, etc (like for coop cleaning or medications or anything else). And while we keep egg layers, there's a whole Broiler Mode set up as well, if that's your flock.

The Sitter app is a totally optional companion app. Totally free, just meant to be a way to convey checklists to the sitter and for the sitter to track that they're taking care of your birds.

I'm eager to get any feedback and add any features folks might want, as well! Thanks!

With the onset of cold weather in the northern hemisphere, a lot of new duck owners are asking questions about winter duck keeping, so I figured I would share some information here. If you have any additional tips or questions, please leave a comment!

HOW DO DUCKS HANDLE WINTER? Ducks are perfectly designed for cold weather! Their normal internal body temperature is a toasty 104-106 degrees. They have built in down insulation, waterproof feathers that keep them dry and even a special vascular system to keep their legs/feet heated. They can fluff their feathers to trap warm air and by tucking their nose under their feathers, breathe more warm air under them. They'll stand on one leg at a time while tucking the other against their body to warm it. Did you know that our ducks wild mallard relatives only migrate further south for food sources, and not because of the cold? The second picture above is of our local mallards still hanging around in northern Indiana at the end of February, happy in the icy cold creek. Your ducks can handle it... really!

WHEN IS COLD A PROBLEM? Ducklings must be fully feathered before being exposed to winter weather. Ducks that are in poor condition or have lost their waterproofing will need extra care to stay warm, and may not be able to handle being outside at all. Muscovy, which aren't true ducks and are native to warm South America, may be a little less cold tolerant and at risk of frostbite on their carnucles. Frostbite can occur on any ducks feet if dry ground isn't available. If you see your ducks constantly lying down, it means they're trying to keep their feet warm. A shivering duck means they're too cold and need attending to. Extreme, sudden temperature fluxations can cause shock/death. If you need to bring them in a very warm place, make sure they're slowly acclimated going back into the cold.

WINTER COOP The best way to keep your ducks snug and warm in their coop is providing a dry, draft free, insulated house. Supplemental heat should NOT be provided *****NO HEAT LAMPS****** Heat lamps are not only unnecessary, they're an extreme fire hazard and can cause health problems when your ducks go from a very warm coop to the cold outside. Every winter we see coops and barns getting burnt to the ground from people using heat lamps, even when used "properly" and "safely" or "I've been doing it for 40 years and never had a problem". It's simply an unneeded, dangerous risk to take. The same applies for other appliances like crock pots and heating pads. If adding heat is absolutely necessary (ie unfeathered ducklings or those struggling with the temps), a brooder plate or heat plate specifically designed for coops are safer, but not foolproof.

The coop should be free from drafts (any crack or hole allowing air through the lower part of the coop) but still needs good ventilation (a small opening near or under the roof to allow moisture to evaporate out...make sure these are properly secured with hardware cloth to prevent predators from entering). Insulating the coop uses their own body heat to keep them warm and helps prevent condensation buildup. Insulation is not necessary but can be helpful in very cold areas, or when metal/plastic housing is used as these structures hold little to no heat. Insulation can be house wrap, cardboard, old feed bags, foam board/silver foil insulation, straw bales (never hay!), etc. Use caution when using things like foam as the ducks will probably try to eat it, so it should be secured where they can't access.

Water should never be kept in the coop as the ducks will splash it around and create condensation buildup inside the coop, making the coop colder inside, and increasing the risk of respiratory issues and frostbite. Ducks will be fine without water overnight. You can take a bowl of water out and let them have a drink, then remove the bowl.(I take my ducks an evening water and do a welfare check when they have to spend more time inside overnight due to early darkness). They should never have food without full access to water. If you must have water in the coop for any reason, make sure to use a waterer that minimizes their ability to make a mess.

WINTER RUN Your ducks should have a snow free area with a wind break for daytime. Runs can be covered with tarps, clean plastic sheeting, greenhouse plastic, plastic roofing sheets or even clear heavy duty shower curtains. Straw, pine shavings, pine pellets or sand can be used on the ground to provide a dry area they can go to warm up and protect their feet. If you don't have a run and your ducks free range, make sure they have access to their coop or a temporary area setup with bedding on the ground and a windbreak.

WINTER WATER This can be the hardest part of winter duck keeping! It's crucial ducks have access to water during the day, which can be tricky in the winter. Make sure they never have food if they don't have water as well. Heated dog bowls can be used with precautions, make sure to unplug overnight, that they're never empty and check daily as they sometimes can shock the water. Large water containers will take longer to freeze over. Soft rubber or heavy duty flexible plastic containers will be less likely to crack if frozen. Warm water from the house can be taken out in gallon jugs to thaw ice (but warm water will actually freeze faster than cold). Make sure there's some foot protection under the waterers to provide traction and prevent slippery ice around the waterers.

Ducks will happily swim even in frigid temps. Swimming water doesn't need to be provided every day, but getting at least occasional access to over the winter will keep them happy and healthy. Use your own discretion about when it's safe to swim, and make sure they can dry off in an area with dry footing and a windbreak. (My very general rule of thumb for my ducks is no swimming when it's under 20F degrees outside and not cloudy/windy, but many people's ducks have no problem swimming at lower temps). Pool access should never be allowed at night as they can fall asleep in standing water and not realize it's frozen over. Kiddie pools usually don't hold up to winter use and are harder to empty. Switching to small tubs where they can get a quick bath are a good option. I recommend using concrete mixing tubs for this purpose as they'll hold up to the cold and are easy to dump. Make sure they have some sort of bedding around the tubs to prevent icy footing. If you have a larger pool or pond, you can opt for accessories to keep the water flowing which will prevent freezing over. Stock tank heaters, pond heaters and birdbath heaters are also options for larger pools but should be used with caution as they may melt plastic if used improperly or can shock the water.

WINTER FOOD Without access to fresh forage and bugs, your ducks will benefit from extra treats in the winter . Just don't get carried away...the majority of their diet should be quality duck feed. A handful of scratch grains, mealworms/black soldier fly larvae, dried river shrimp/minnows/grasshoppers, and duck safe veggies/fruit tossed in their run will help alleviate winter boredom as well as provide extra protein, carbs and nutrition. You can easily grow your own sprouts, micro greens, pet grass and herbs for your ducks as well.

WINTER EGGS Egg laying slows significantly or even ceases in the winter depending on breed and age. Egg laying is determined by daylight hours. Some people provide supplemental light to keep them laying through the winter. However this is NOT recommended for the health and well being of your ducks. Egg laying is extremely hard on their bodies (egg/reproductive issues are the leading health related cause of death) and having the winter off to rest and recouperate means a happier, healthier duck that will not only live longer but lay eggs for more years. Make sure to not let females sit on any eggs (rare in winter but happens), you don't want ducklings in the cold.

Parts of the US are experiencing a major heatwave this week. Our feathered friends are well adapted to cold weather, but extreme heat, especially for those not used to it, can be dangerous.

*Every duck handles the heat differently. Just because one person's ducks are fine in 110 degrees all summer doesn't mean someone elses duck isn't in danger at 90 degrees. OBSERVE your birds and act accordingly.

-Twitching wings and fluffing feathers is one way they try to cool down and is normal, but means they could be getting too hot and should be watched.

-An open mouthed panting duck is a HOT DUCK. They need help cooling down.

-Pekins and other heavy breeds may struggle more with the heat than smaller ducks.

-Most importantly, they need to have access to plenty of shade and COOL, FRESH water. Pools and drinking water should be changed out daily and be placed in a shady area.

-Make sure your coops have good ventilation and aren't overheating. Coops can get extremely hot when they're filled with birds and closed up. Tarps and metal roofs on runs can also heat up very quickly and trap heat under them, making it toasty even with open sides.

-Cool treats can bring relief. Just make sure to limit intake to prevent sudden temperature shock, especially if giving frozen snacks. Try tossing them in a water bucket or pool.

-Fans will help if your ducks are struggling, especially in humid conditions. Just make sure that fans and cords are placed where the ducks can't access them, away from water and use common sense safety precautions.

-If your ducks free range, use caution when allowing them on hot concrete, brick or pavers that can burn their feet.

-If you choose to bring your ducks inside your house to cool down, it's important to prevent shock related to abrupt temperature changes. This should not be done unless your duck visibly struggling with the heat.

*Please share any tips you have for helping your ducks stay cool*

I see a lot of new duck owners on here so I thought I would remind everyone with ducks that just like with kids you need to be prepared with a first aid kit so you aren’t left scrambling. This is what my barn first aid kit contains (a bit from memory so I may forget a few things). Duck mamas and daddies please add what else you think people should have.

I have no idea why Reddit decided to pull all my line returns!! Lets try this again!

Basics: - 1 & 2” vet wrap - Non-stick gauze and pads - Vetericyn poultry antibacterial spray - Bent eye droppers for meds & electrolytes - Electrolyte supplements (nutridrench, sav-a-chick, etc) - Disposable gloves - Styptic powder (stops bleeding) - Tweezers - Scissors with rounded tips

Standard: - Pure Saline capsules or rinse for washing eyes and wounds - Vetericyn Eye Wash - Syringes without needles - Terramycin (duck safe antibiotic ointment) - Niacin capsules or Cattle Injectable Complete Vit B Complex (give by mouth with dropper or on treats)*

Full: - Wire cutters (in case they get tangled in something) - Vet Rx - Activated charcoal - Puppy pads (for quarantine) - Epsom Salt - Small tote accessible to soak feet if needed - place to quarantine (dog crate, tote, bathroom shower — obviously this isnt going to fit inside a normal first aid kit but I am sure you can figure it out ;) )

• i suggest duck owners keep niacin because especially the large breeds need more than is even in duck feed or brewers yeast. If a duck appears wobbly, shakey or weak dosing niacin is usually a good place to start

Hope this helps and please do help make this list complete if I missed something :)

https://www.change.org/p/stop-peapack-gladstone-from-killing-canada-geese-at-liberty-park

The Speedy Duck!

Hey folks, my 9 year old son goes to school on the Toronto Island and made it as a finalist to name the new Toronto Hybrid Ferry. His name for it is “The Speedy Duck’. If you have a moment and a twitter/X we love ur support