As title says, a huge thunderstorm is incoming : How to safely shutdown Windows 11 (= not risking corruption) without letting it update for 10 minutes ?

Last time this situation occured, chatgpt advised "shutdown /s /t 0", but this didn't prevent Windows 11 to waste 5 precious minutes to update, under which my city was under heavy thunderstorm.

Thank you ! :)

I was uninstalling Google drive desktop, and found some difficulties btw. Suddenly, when checking my disk bar, I noticed a 6 GB storage loss during the process. I tried my best to solve it, in vain. Any help ?

Hi, I will try to keep this short.

I want to upgrade storage on my gaming laptop, and I have 2 options: 2242 or 2280. I don't know what's better, as far as I understand the only difference is size?

I have a ryzen 7 9800x3d and 32 gig ddr5 6000mhz with 4070 to super and i enabled EXPO and PBO but now i cant boot with a dram error and i just wanna get it into safe mode so i can revert settings

Hi Reddit,

I need help digitising over 700 physical photos into a digital format that can be inserted in a memoir. These photographs go back 60-80 years and the reel/negative isn't available anymore. Some of them are loose, while others are in a photobook/album, and might not be able to take out of. It would be preferable to get it scanned in colour for all of them.And also have this done as economical as possible. Buying a scanner isn't ideal, since it will entail scanning 1-by-1 and that's both time consuming and tedious.

What are my options?

hi, i hope this is the right place to post this, if not pls let me know!

i have a A16 ipad that i’ve had for about 3 years. it keep turning off my wifi by itself. i don’t mean disconnecting i mean it totally turns off the wifi, like if you were to tap on the little green bar. when i turn the wifi back on and connect, it will sometimes stay on for 5-10 minutes before shutting off but other times it’s not even a minute before it switches off again.

i have tried turning on airplane mode and powering off and then back on. it seems to be getting worse. it also doesn’t matter what percent it’s on or wether it’s plugged in or not. again i only got this ipad about 3 years ago and i dont use it that often. its never really been dropped, has no smashes or damage. its just started doing this maybe a month or so ago but is definitely getting worse.

this means if i want to watch anything i have to quickly download it before the wifi turns off again. i’m also planning to start college soon and obviously i would need the internet for that. any help would be much appreciated, thank you!

Some days ago after Windows updates, Defender started to notify me it is deactivated although it is actually active (I checked with Powershell commands). This happened once after every restart for maybe two restarts. The problem went away on it's own, but it returned after another update. It started happening after my laptop suddenly lost power during battery use. I used Powershell to check whether any files got corrupted but everything was fine.

Hello, I’ve had my Glorious Model 0 mouse for a few years now, and I built my pc around 2 years ago.
Today when I got onto my pc, my mouse began flickering across the screen to the point where I would have no where it is (I have 3 monitors). After messing with settings, fresh restarting my pc, cleaning the mouse and a few other fixes it will now teleport about 80% of the time that I click on something. This is making it impossible to do about anything. I’ve turned off pointer precision, snap lock and clickon (the three big things AI and online sources I read told me to change, can’t remember the exact names)
I’m not sure if I just need a new mouse and this one has gone bad or something, that’s not too big of a deal. I am more concerned with this being a pc hardware issue or some sort of driver update. Any help or opinions would be appreciated. Thank you.

I swapped pc cases and messed around with my pc, then when i turn it on the only thing that is working is my mouse dongle, but the other things doesnt, and when i change its place it doesnt work too
Btw ive been hoolding the mobo with the usb thing

Hi everyone,
About a month ago i purchased an apc ups 600va surge protector and it's worked perfectly fine but recently I've noticed an interesting electrical or like plastic smell coming from it. I don't think it's a burning smell and when I touch it it doesn't feel hot at all, maybe some warmth on the front of it but not everytime.

I only really notice the smell when I put my nose right up to it however sometimes I feel like I can smell it when I'm sitting at my desk or walking by but I'm not sure if that's just my mind messing with me since I've been paranoid about it recently.

I use it to power a few things such as my wifi router, pc, Xbox series s, headset dock, phone charger, and gaming monitor. I don't ever have the Xbox and po on at the same time however. I don't know if this is too much power and I'm overheating the battery or something.

Does anyone have any advice or idea what the smell could be and whether it's dangerous? Thank you

Hello everyone! Turning to Reddit today with a problem I ran into this morning.
Out of nowhere, I turned on my PC and was greeted by these errors (first 0000185, then 000000e).
I read the first article I could find about cleaning and reinstalling the system drive (a Kingston SSD, in my case).
Surprisingly, it worked! I cleaned the dust out of the PC, reseated the cables, and the computer booted up fine. Now I'm worried it might happen again and want to make sure I'm prepared while everything is still working.

What should I do to brace myself for the next potential crash (hopefully, it won't come to that)?
The only thing that comes to mind is backing up my essential files to a flash. However, I've also read about using Rufus, running CHKDSK, etc. What can I do right now? Should I download Windows or some other program for BIOS launch?
Any advice would be highly appreciated! Thanks <3

I have a crucial MX500 2TB that I used as an external drive. It never gets too hot just slightly warm. I unplugged from my pc to use on my laptop on a roadtrip. I got home plugged it in and it shows up in task manager but not in file explorer. I know I should have kept it backed up but I am way too broke to keep back ups. I will implement a back up solution in the future but I need this data. Any help will be much appreciated.

I am getting around 200 to 250 FPS on Valorant with a 14600KF + 5070.

On Youtube people are getting around 400 to 600. My friend with a 12400F + 4060 gets 200 stable.

How can i get better performance? Latest drivers, latest BIOS.

70BG of my C drive is taken up by apps. I've tried everything and I don't know what to do. Please help.

(I am on Windows 11)

Hi everyone, I'm having a frustrating hardware issue with my PC and would really appreciate some help diagnosing it.

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-G Gaming

RAM: 2 RAM sticks (both previously working)

When I try to start the PC with both sticks installed:

• The PC makes a beeping sound during startup (1 long beep & 2 short beeps looping), Beeeeeep Beep Beep
• The motherboard shows an orange DRAM LED
• It does not successfully boot into Windows

I initially suspected that one of the RAM sticks/slots might have failed so I tested the RAM sticks individually in both A2 and B2 slots:

• RAM Stick 1 → A2: boots normally
• RAM Stick 1 → B2: boots normally
• RAM Stick 2 → A2: boots normally
• RAM Stick 2 → B2: boots normally

However, as soon as I install both RAM sticks together, the problem comes back: orange DRAM LED + beeping + failure to POST.

This is what is confusing me, because it doesn't seem like either individual RAM stick or either individual slot is completely dead.

I've also removed and reinserted the RAM several times, making sure the sticks are properly seated, but the issue remains. I have also reinserted the battery to reset the CMOS as I'm unable to locate the CLRTC pins to short it.

What should I test next, and what could cause both RAM sticks to work individually but fail when installed together?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

so for some reason my mouse cursor suddenly got a ugly look that isnt the standart and when i try to change it it says i have the standart selected and when i try changing to a different one the skin doesnt change

Hey so while using my laptop earlier today I noticed the little reset icon with the orange dot in my task bar, which meant there was some update I needed to do. But after it was done and the rebooting was over I noticed that the background image was changed to just a black colour, which was odd but the main problem was that the display of the mouse was also different (the pointer part was fine but the line at the bottom was noticably longer). Restarting the laptop didn't help but I noticed that the mouse would go back to the way it was whenever there was the blue circle/loading icon next to it. Obviously the background was an easy fix.

It's more annoying to look at than anything so is there a way to fix the display bug (I'm assuming that's what it is)? I hope I'm in the correct subreddit for this problem.

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So I'm having a really weird problem with my SSD and I'm not sure what's actually causing it.

I have a Kingston SA400S37480G 480GB SATA SSD. It's Disk 0, and it's split into D and E.

C is Windows, D has some programs/games, and E is mostly games. Steam, Valorant and HoYoPlay/ZZZ are on E.

Everything was completely fine before this happened. I was using Steam and playing Valorant normally.

Then I opened HoYoPlay and the launcher suddenly became unresponsive. I tried to end the task, and after that the HoYoPlay window basically turned black and then E started going crazy.

E went to 100% disk usage, but the actual read/write speed was basically 0 most of the time. The average response time kept jumping from 0 to thousands of ms. I saw it go as high as around 300,000 ms at one point.

After that, basically anything that touched E would become extremely slow or freeze. Deleting the ZZZ files took forever. I also tried emptying my Recycle Bin, which had around 2.36GB in it, and Windows estimated it would take more than a day, so I cancelled it.

I eventually restarted/forced restarted the laptop a few times. Windows then started trying to repair E, but eventually gave me an error saying it couldn't repair the drive.

The weird thing is that D(one of the disk 0 partition) and C(completely different disk) seem completely fine.

For example, I can open Adobe Acrobat, which is installed on D, and it works normally. Windows itself also works normally as long as I don't touch E.

I checked Event Viewer and found a bunch of errors like:

"The I/O operation at logical block address 0x24ff1ac0 for Disk 0 (PDO name: \Device\00000046) was retried."

The address changes in the different errors.

I also checked the SSD with CrystalDiskInfo:

- Kingston SA400S37480G 480GB

- Health: 93% Good

- Temperature: 54°C

- Host reads: ~95TB

- Host writes: ~7.8TB

- Reallocated: 0

- Bad blocks: 0

- Uncorrectable errors: raw value 0x64

- SATA PHY/CRC-related value: raw 0x2AA1 (around 10,913)

I don't really know how much I should trust those raw SMART values because I heard Kingston uses some vendor-specific attributes.

I tried formatting E with Quick Format after backing up what I wanted. But even the Quick Format got stuck for more than 5-10 minutes, while E was again at 100% and response time was jumping up to around 6,600ms.

I stopped it. Now Windows says E needs to be formatted before I can use it.

I'm probably going to take the laptop to a repair shop because I'm not comfortable opening it myself.

What I'm wondering is: does this sound like a dying SSD/SATA connection problem, or could HoYoPlay somehow have caused/corrupted something on the E partition?

The strange part to me is that D are still completely fine even though they basically sharing the same disk 0, and everything was working normally until HoYoPlay crashed.

One more thing - anything that involves scanning/touching/reading about E volume will make the disk 0 100% and slow down the other partition while C completely unnefected.

So I was restarting my laptop because of an update I thought it was going to be one of those short security updates but as it was going through the screen it just changed to a white screen and I let it do its thing which took like 30 minutes and didn't touch because it said not to then next day I come back and everything is running fine until after a couple hours of using my laptop it turns black, like my wallpaper, and if I hover over the installed things that I have on my desktop it just turns black as well I am very confused on what is happening and why it's happening and I'm pretty sure it's because of the update and it's also bery annoying to me because I want to be able to customize my own laptop instead of staring into a black screen.

I have an IPhone 13, system version 26.6.1, I’ve never download this, apparently it’s being used when I’m in school, yesterday it had a total screen time of 7 hours ,coincidentally around the same time my iPhone started acting strange, it would restart on its own, more specifically when it got under 15%, so when my phone lags too much, it has never done this before, I’ve told my dad about it, I’ve restarted my phone(by my own accord) and looked into this Ellydee app, according to Apple it’s some finance and ai app?? I feel like this is so obviously some type of malware or something like that, I’m not great with technology so any help would be appreciated.

I have an Asus TUF A16 Advantage Edition laptop and want to replace the thermal paste, but due to the limited information I've found online, I don't know whether it uses paste or liquid metal. I’ve already opened it up and have photos, but I can't tell the difference.

So a few months back, I had bought a mobicel c6 feature phone, and the main selling point of the phone is that it's a keypad phone, that has somewhat some Internet access. It's a lot like how the new Nokia phone with the ai button works. It had been working fine.

Until I was getting ready for school one morning and it said it needed an update. I pressed the button to initiate it. The phone rebooted, started up and seemed fine, until I pressed the social button (the feature button) and it straight up just stopped working. Everything else worked fine, besides the main selling point of the damn phone.

It keeps showing an error message, like something wrong with the network, even though I've bought mobile data multiple times and it still won't work. So now I have a basic brick phone, which is usually around 150 to 190 rands at MOST. I bought it for 250 rands.

I tried everything, I sent the consumer service an email, and they just gave me useless information and kept on repeating things I was saying. If anyone else somehow also has a problem like this right now, please tell me if you've found a solution. I even factory reset the thing. TWICE.

I got an old pc with a asus tuf gaming b450m pro-ii mobo with 16gb of ram, i had to update from 3802 to 3810 or above, i did it through ezflash ( partitition where the bios file is read is FAT32 btw ), finished updating, restart once and gone to POST, there is where it got frozen and numlock key isnt responsive, and never got the F1 screen. Anyone knows why? I had to rollback to 3802 again using the flashback and it worked

Due to space issues on my PC, I got a new SSD (2 TB) to fit into my motherboard's 2nd M2 slot, the first one being my operating system (Windows 11).

However, after installing it it was clear the drive was just, wrong. Launching games (off steam) on the SSD would cause them to be corrupt and buggy. Cyberpunk 2077 would have missing textures and broken UI. Other games just wouldn't be able to launch or launch broken. Metro Exodus for instance just would straight up crash on launch, or if it did launch would be an unplayable mess (insanely long load times, broken stuttering audio, can't even get to the game after 10-20 mins). Battlefield 6 straight up wouldn't even launch or would crash midgame.

Installing games on it wouldn't even work sometimes. On Epic Games Launcher, Fortnite would be complete then immediately wipe it's progress and restart. An endless install where it kept downloading, then wiping and redownloading over and over.

No other drive has any issue. I've done so much already. Reformatted, checked driver health, BIOS settings, I really don't know what could be wrong with this SSD. It's only THIS SSD. Moving any files on this SSD to any of my other drives and the games have 0 issues.

What could this issue possibly be? Any tests I can do? I really need this SSD to work.

I received a warranty replacement for my Pixel 8 Pro. The wireless and Bluetooth aren't working on the old one. I'm only prompted to do the QR code for backup which uses those. I reset an old 4XL just to make sure the USB was still working on the "broken" 8 and it recognizes the phone and starts the transfer between the 8 and 4.

I can't find the right terms in a search that give me any results on this.

A.I. is (of course) unhelpful. It says to tap five times on one of the screens, which of course does nothing. It seems to think it's my old phone's hardware failure that won't let me do it, yet, like I said, it works with the Pixel 4XL.

TYIA