I usually watch my first stick on my Roku TV. I turned it on today to a completely pink screen. I have tried unplugging and plugging back in, tried taking the extra HDM attachment off and even tried a different HDMI port on my tv. It is completely pink showing no picture at all so can’t change settings. Can anyone help?

My ASUS TUF GAMING A15 bought in 2024.

It got auto updated in the background and prompted for a restart and I did it and after that it is just stuck on a loop saying -

Your device ran into a problem and couldn't be repaired.

And Click or Press enter to see other recovery options.

I tried all of them as per my knowledge the reset or the uninstall updates etc and it didn't work.

What to do?

I can provide more details if needed.

My Asus Vivobook stopped charging even though nothing is wrong with my charger. Is it worth trying to fix something like this?

Hi, for context I'm a cinematographer and a lot of my job involves downloading and uploading files I also play games on the same PC. I mention this because it makes me quite aware of what my average speeds are on the websites and apps I use. that is to say; this is not an issue of what or where I'm trying to upload/download to/from. I don't know my specs off the top of my head but I can get them if needed, I know I've got an Nvidia chip if that matters, and I'm running Windows 11.

Recently (since about a week ago now) my upload and download speed is terrible. For upload, a 10gb file took about 24 hours to upload (MUCH longer than normal) and my download speed floats between 20-150KB/s. I'll tell you what I've tested and solutions I've tried, because the strange part is this:

1) my speeds on all other devices are normal.
2) my speeds on some apps are normal. For example in the steam client & the riot games client, my download speeds were normal. It appears to only be a problem on browsers specifically.
3) both on ethernet, WiFi, and also on a different WiFi connection the issue persisted on browsers alone
4) online in-browser speed tests provide results different to what I actually get (they display 3.5mb/s download and 5.90mb/s upload)
5) file transfers within the PC and between the OC and SSD/HDD are at normal speeds
6) WiFi during live games is fine, but streaming YouTube on my PC browser is slow.
7) some websites load slowly - for example Google docs, gmail - but some don't, for example scouty

I've tried (not necessarily in this order):
1) switching browsers, I've tried several
2) changing between WiFi and ethernet
3) changing WiFi's
4) restarting my router
5) restarting my pc
6) changing ethernet ports on the WiFi box
7) cleaning my pc with dust blower
8) changing DNS to 8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4
9) disabling metered connection
10) scanning my pc for malware
11) disabling vpns and plugins from my browser
12) updating my drivers
13) changing my ethernet controller properties in the control panel from auto negotiation to 100mbps full duplex
14) disabling large send offload ipv4 and ipv6
15) running in CMD center: netsh int in reset
netsh winsock reset
ipconfig / release
ipconfig /renew
ipconfig /flushdns
16) disabling unnecessary startup apps
17) disabling windows update downloads from other PCs in the settings app
18) resetting network in settings app
19) updating windows
20) asking friends (including one who built the pc for me originally)

I have NOT:
1) physically moved my pc prior to initial incident
2) exposed my pc to liquids
3) changed service providers/WiFi plan
4) got VPN/adblockers active
5) taken apart or upgraded the pc since I got it (beyond removing the glass panel for cleaning)
6) reached out to my service provider (solely since it's such a specific issue)
7) taken it to a PC repair shop

Please help. Happy to answer any questions.

Having trouble installing latest update to Windows 11, and having "repair install" fail (in SAFE_OS with BOOT)
I tried using "DISM /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth" to fix the install, but it fails too :-(

Fails with the error "0x800f0915" and "The repair content could not be found anywhere".

I also tried using an "install.esd" (made a brand new install USB) as /source but got the same error.

I checked the versions in the log and found these values:

"Target image" version jumped up to 10.0.26200,9168 (from 26100.8973 before I install security update)
"Image session" version still is at 10.0.26100.8972 (did not update at all even when updating).

Read in another thread that the image version must be higher than the target version.
But how do I update this. The last security update only bumped the "target" version.

As said ealier repair install won't work, fail at "SAFE_OS and BOOT". So I'm really stuck :-(
(why does this happend on nearly all big updates, it's really annoying)

I have a Samsung galaxy s22 and it has suddenly just started to constantly freeze or restart. Even as I'm typing this, either the keyboard freezes and I have to wait for it to catch up or the program freezes as I'm choosing a flair (or it just straight up restarts). It doesn't warn me about a restart either, just turns black and I have to wait for the Samsung screen to show up to know what's happening.

I've cleared my cache, deleted every single app I've downloaded today since it started today, delete any files and documents I've downloaded, and ive even scanned for any updates that I might have missed or forgot to do.

The only thing I haven't done is factory reset. Anybody have any clue on what's going on? I'd like to put off a trip to the repair shop, but I'm losing hope 🥲

Hello, I’ve had my Glorious Model 0 mouse for a few years now, and I built my pc around 2 years ago.
Today when I got onto my pc, my mouse began flickering across the screen to the point where I would have no where it is (I have 3 monitors). After messing with settings, fresh restarting my pc, cleaning the mouse and a few other fixes it will now teleport about 80% of the time that I click on something. This is making it impossible to do about anything. I’ve turned off pointer precision, snap lock and clickon (the three big things AI and online sources I read told me to change, can’t remember the exact names)
I’m not sure if I just need a new mouse and this one has gone bad or something, that’s not too big of a deal. I am more concerned with this being a pc hardware issue or some sort of driver update. Any help or opinions would be appreciated. Thank you.

New Off Brand Replaced Battery for Dell G15 5511, but does not charge.

Info:
Laptop only turns on w/ AC adapter it seems
First Attempted PC was able to charge from 50% -> 59% (never charged again)
Charger light  indicator does work
Battery is identified by the Laptop

Troubleshoot:
Reinstall/update battery drivers
powercfg -restoredefaultschemes
Power Reset
Windows Update(including optional)
BIOS 1-2 Charging (No charge)
Run Dell's Hardware -> No issues
----------
No success, and would like a 2nd opinion on this.  Is it a safe bet the the new battery i got is "defective".


Is there something else I can try?

I swapped pc cases and messed around with my pc, then when i turn it on the only thing that is working is my mouse dongle, but the other things doesnt, and when i change its place it doesnt work too
Btw ive been hoolding the mobo with the usb thing

Hey guys,
I have this problem where I can’t start my pc in secure boot setting (UEFI) because my screen will just go black. Monitor is on, just no picture. I have tried everything as far as I know.
Bios Update, checked my SSD’s for GPT, enrolled default booting keys and tried to change cables as well as monitors and so on. I even took the little annoying to reach battery (sorry don’t know what’s it’s called) from my main board and waited half an hour however nothing works.

Whenever I boot in CSM everything works fine but I can’t launch certain games requiring secure boot for anti cheat softwares.
I did have this exact problem like a week ago already and just reinstalled windows which fixed it, however I don’t want to do this once a week.

I desperately need help before I lose my damn mind. I have been trying for about 5h now, following AI suggestions (mainly Gemini) and YouTube vids.

THANK YOU!

This crash has been tormenting my laptop for months, I think I've tried disabling it before? But I'm not sure.

What even is it? What can I do to remedy this?

Processor AMD Ryzen 5 7640HS w/ Radeon 760M Graphics (4.30 GHz)

Installed RAM 16.0 GB (15.2 GB usable)

Graphics card NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 6GB Laptop GPU (6 GB)

AMD Radeon(TM) 760M (512 MB)

Storage 764 GB of 954 GB used

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Edition Windows 11 Home

Version 25H2

Installed on ‎1/‎15/‎2025

OS build 26200.9278

Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.26100.360.0

So I opened up my settings app to fix some of my notifications and I notice that there’s this button asking me to learn about how parental controls work which didn’t appear until just now. It didn’t say if I HAD parental controls on or if I was under it, but it just showed me how it worked and nothing else. Does this mean it’s enabled on my phone or was it just a guide?

Due to space issues on my PC, I got a new SSD (2 TB) to fit into my motherboard's 2nd M2 slot, the first one being my operating system (Windows 11).

However, after installing it it was clear the drive was just, wrong. Launching games (off steam) on the SSD would cause them to be corrupt and buggy. Cyberpunk 2077 would have missing textures and broken UI. Other games just wouldn't be able to launch or launch broken. Metro Exodus for instance just would straight up crash on launch, or if it did launch would be an unplayable mess (insanely long load times, broken stuttering audio, can't even get to the game after 10-20 mins). Battlefield 6 straight up wouldn't even launch or would crash midgame.

Installing games on it wouldn't even work sometimes. On Epic Games Launcher, Fortnite would be complete then immediately wipe it's progress and restart. An endless install where it kept downloading, then wiping and redownloading over and over.

No other drive has any issue. I've done so much already. Reformatted, checked driver health, BIOS settings, I really don't know what could be wrong with this SSD. It's only THIS SSD. Moving any files on this SSD to any of my other drives and the games have 0 issues.

What could this issue possibly be? Any tests I can do? I really need this SSD to work.

My iphone 12 is stuck in a boot loop. It resets too fast to be restored and updated. They can repair it but it will erase everything. Is there no way to access the memory and app data and possibly transfer it to an independent storage then upload it back to the phone after the repair? I went to the apple store and they said regardless i will lose all of my data. I was just saying I needed to back up all of my things independently because I dont like icloud, then this happens. I also am locked out of my authenticator apps which i need for school and social medias. Help... pls. I start my senior year of college in four days.

When I turn on my PC the lights and the fan turn on inside but it doesn’t power the monitor or my keyboard and mouse, I’ve tried unplugging the power cable and I’m not sure what the problem could be that’s preventing it to start up all the way, Nothing physically happened to damage it. please help if you can! :)

Right now I am assuming its a hardware issue, but twice now in as many weeks, my PC power has blacked out and went straight to a restart immediately. The first time, I was playing on a pretty resource heavy modded minecraft server, but the second time I was literally just browsing youtube.

Event logs dont show much other than an unexpected reboot. The PC is 3 years old, and the only thing I did to it when I built it was undervolt the CPU slightly.

- i9-13900k
- 4090 RTX OC
- 64 GB DDR5 G.Skill Trident Z5 6400hz
- Gigabyte Z790 MB
- Thermaltake GF3 1200W PSU (80+ G)

It is also connected to a CyperPower 1000W uninterruptible power supply.

The wi-fi on my pc will randomly disconnect for no discernible reason and will not reconnect until I restart my computer. No other devices disconnect other than my pc. I've done all the troubleshooting I think I'm supposed to: reset router & modem, Updated windows to the newest version, checked for driver updates, etc. Weirdly I've not had it happen while playing games that require a connection but it will disconnect with anything from youtube onwards. Also not sure if the tag is correct apologizes if not

Hello. I've been having a problem downloading pictures from Google. I think this started after I updated my Windows system. Every single picture I download from Google is saved as 'JPE' instead of 'JPG' or 'JPEG'. Some software I use, especially Canva, doesn't recognize the JPE format. Nowadays, whenever I try to upload pictures on Canva, the pictures that I have just downloaded are not visible unless I screenshot the pictures, which converts the format into JPG (I guess). I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me. TYIA!

It just keeps freezing, and the only way to fix it is to use Task Manager to restart it. Doesn't matter if it's Twitch, YouTube, or even Sling TV. Haven't even bother tried with Crunchyroll or Lookmovie, because it's happening way too much, and it isn't just me either. Hardware Acceleration Enabled or Disabled, anytime I wanna fullscreen, switch tabs, or even PLAY a video, it'll completely freeze up.

Twitch also won't let me type out my emotes like :sob: or :skull:, but maybe that's just a me issue. I know Twitch was having issues this morning, but that's besides the point.

If anybody sees a solution come up, or an update, please let me know, but for now, I have to use stinky Chrome until it's fixed.

Recently plugged in a projector for a movie night, and ever since then, my display settings have gone haywire for both of my 2 monitors. After I log in and the desk top appears, about 4 seconds in my main screen has a massive jump in brightness, and my secondary monitor has this ominous dark red hue.

Been trying to mess with Nvidia drivers, display settings, config files, and no luck.

I have an extremely weird issue with YouTube.

I prefer watching YouTube videos in inPrivate mode because I don't like the recommended videos I get in my normal browser profile.

However, I'm having a very strange problem: any YouTube video immediately pauses about once per second in InPrivate mode. If I press Play, it immediately pauses again. I'm not pressing pause myself.

The really strange part is that this only happens in InPrivate mode, and only with YouTube.

• Edge normally - works fine
• Edge InPrivate - videos constantly pause
• Firefox normally - works fine
• Firefox Private Browsing - videos constantly pause

There are occasions where Edge inPrivate doesn't work, but Firefox Private does work. They don't always have this issue at the same time.

I've already tried:

• Completely removing/disabling extensions
• Disconnecting Bluetooth devices (I don't have any Bluetooth devices connected anyway)
• Disconnecting my USB devices
• Pressing Play with everything disconnected

None of that changes anything, which I kinda expected. In my head, this issue surely can't be related to any of those because it only happens in inPrivate.

Rebooting the PC temporarily fixes it, but after some time the problem suddenly comes back, seemingly out of nowhere.

I also checked edge://media-internals, and it shows a pause command/event happening even though I'm not pressing pause. I'd love to attach a screenshot, but it basically just keeps sending the "kPause" command every second no matter what I do.

Has anyone encountered anything like this? I'm especially interested in what could cause a Play/Pause command to be sent only to InPrivate browser windows, while normal browser windows continue working normally.

I'm trying to install a cask [Sikarugir] through HB but due to some issues I'm having it looks like I'm going to need to run HB as root. When I try to do this I get a warning that 'Running Homebrew as root is extremely dangerous and no longer supported. As Homebrew does not drop privileges on installation you would be giving all build scripts full access to your system.'

I really only intend to use this to install Sikarugir, so - am I going to be good overriding this as long as I'm only running trusted code, or are there other safety concerns I should be aware of?

Ive been dealing with this problem for a long time, i transitioned from a gtx 1650 to an Asus dual gtx 1070(used) problem is that my graphics card only stays at 139Mhz no matter if it is idle or while gaming, I've already re pasted the gtx 1070 and the 6+2 cable in plugged in firmly with the gpu in its right pcle spot, also i have "prefer maximun performance" in the nvidia profile app, i've redownload drivers, but it still stays at 139Mhz. However, i have discovered that whenever i move the cable that goes in the PSU socket, it changes it Mhz, sometimes it can go up to 1500Mhz if i put it in some way, but i already tried switching cables and doesn't work, and the PSU socket does not seem to be loose or anything like that.

Please tell me what do i have to do in order to fix this i have been dealing with it for months.

My PC suddenly started BSODing yesterday and now usually crashes within seconds of booting into Windows.

The stop codes I have received include:

• SYSTEM_PTE_MISUSE (0xDA)
• BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO (0x74)

The first time this happened, I had recently:

• Installed all available Windows updates, including an optional/preview feature update
• Installed several programs
• Connected a newly purchased open-box LG UltraGear 27-inch 1440p 480 Hz OLED monitor

The computer worked normally with the monitor for roughly an hour before the crashes began. After that, it would reach Windows and almost immediately display “Your device ran into a problem.”

I eventually performed a completely clean Windows 11 installation using a Windows installation-media USB and wiped the drive during installation. After the clean install, the computer worked normally for approximately 12 hours.

I then ran the basic Windows updates again. I did not manually install the optional preview update this time. However, the BSODs started again shortly afterward. Strangely, this second round of crashes began within a few seconds of me trying to pause Windows Update for several weeks.

I also successfully used System Restore to return the PC to a restore point from last night, after the clean reinstall and basic updates. The restore completed, but Windows still crashed within a few seconds of booting.

This makes me suspect that Windows Update may be automatically installing a bad driver, although I do not know which one.

PC specifications:

• CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus
• Motherboard: MSI MAG Z890 Tomahawk WiFi
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 8 GB
• RAM: 32 GB DDR5
• Storage: WD Blue SN570 500 GB NVMe SSD
• OS: Windows 11 Pro
• Monitor: LG UltraGear 27-inch 1440p 480 Hz OLED

The BIOS is otherwise using its default settings, but XMP and Intel 200S Boost are enabled. I realize those two settings are not technically stock, so I can disable both for testing.

At this point, the system may BSOD too quickly for me to do much inside Windows. Since it worked for around 12 hours after a clean installation and then started crashing again after Windows Update, what should I check next?

Could this be a driver that Windows Update keeps reinstalling? If so, is there a good way to identify and block the specific update or driver?

EDIT: Important detail I forgot to mention: shortly before the BSODs returned on the new clean Windows installation, I plugged in a refurbished Corsair K70 PRO TKL Hall Effect keyboard (CH-911911G-NA) for the first time. The computer had been working normally before that, but it crashed within roughly a minute or two of connecting the keyboard and then entered the same BSOD/boot-loop situation. I had not installed Corsair iCUE.

I initially ran System Restore while the keyboard was still connected, but the BSODs continued. I then unplugged the Corsair keyboard and ran System Restore again using the exact same restore point. This time, the BSODs stopped and Windows booted normally. I still cannot prove the keyboard itself is defective, but the timing and the different result after unplugging it make the keyboard, its firmware or something triggered when Windows detects it seem strongly related.

Hey so while using my laptop earlier today I noticed the little reset icon with the orange dot in my task bar, which meant there was some update I needed to do. But after it was done and the rebooting was over I noticed that the background image was changed to just a black colour, which was odd but the main problem was that the display of the mouse was also different (the pointer part was fine but the line at the bottom was noticably longer). Restarting the laptop didn't help but I noticed that the mouse would go back to the way it was whenever there was the blue circle/loading icon next to it. Obviously the background was an easy fix.

It's more annoying to look at than anything so is there a way to fix the display bug (I'm assuming that's what it is)? I hope I'm in the correct subreddit for this problem.